The Chemistry of Fragrances

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ISBN: 9780854045280 | 0854045287
Cover: Paperback
Copyright: 3/1/1999

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The Chemistry of Fragrances reviews the latest, chemistry, techniques and tools applied to fragrance creation. Beginning with the history of perfumes, which goes back over thousands of years, the book goes on to discuss the structure of the perfume industry today. Written by respected experts in their fields, this unique book gives an insider's view of "mixing molecules" from behind the portals of modern-day alchemy.

Glossary

xiv

Chapter 1 A Home Full of Fragrance

(2)

David Pybus

Chapter 2 The History of Aroma Chemistry and Perfume

(21)

David Pybus

Early Use of Fragrance

(5)

The Age of Chivalry

(1)

The Age of Alchemy

(2)

The Age of Discovery

(4)

The Age of Revolution

(2)

The Age of Empire

(6)

Technique

(1)

Structured Perfumes, and Use of Synthetics

(1)

Industrialization and `Massification'

(4)

The Age of Fashion

(1)

Chapter 3 Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin

(27)

Charles Sell

Perfumes and Odours in Nature

(8)

Introduction

(2)

Biosynthesis

(6)

Extraction of Natural Perfume Ingredients

(7)

Expression

(1)

Distillation

(2)

Solvent Extraction

(4)

Adulteration of Natural Perfume Ingredients

(5)

From Natural to Synthetic

(6)

References

(1)

Chapter 4 Ingredients for the Modern Perfumery Industry

(74)

Charles Sell

Economic Factors Affecting Perfume Ingredient Production

(1)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Terpenes

(39)

Introduction

(2)

Five Key Terpenes

(9)

Hemiterpenes

(1)

Acyclic Monoterpenes

(4)

Cyclic Monoterpenes

(9)

Bicyclic Monoterpenes

(2)

Sesquiterpenes

(3)

Cedarwood

(2)

Sandalwood

(3)

Diterpenes

(1)

Ambergris

(2)

Ionones and Related Compounds

(3)

Musks

(10)

Nitromusks

(2)

Polycyclic Musks

(3)

Macrocyclic Musks

(3)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Benzene

101

(4)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Toluene

105

(3)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Phenol

108

(6)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Naphthalene

114

(2)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Aliphatic Materials

116

(5)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Cyclopentanone

121

(1)

Perfume Ingredients Derived from Dicyclopentadiene

122

(2)

Conclusions

124

(1)

References

124

(1)

Chapter 5 The Structure of an International Fragrance Company

125

(6)

David Pybus

Introduction

125

(2)

The Business-getting Chain

127

(1)

The Supply Chain

127

(3)

References

130

(1)

Chapter 6 The Fragrance Brief

131

(6)

David Pybus

Brief for `Eve', Prepared by Business Scents Ltd

133

(4)

Background

133

(1)

Product Range

134

(1)

General

134

(1)

Fragrance

134

(1)

Time-scale

135

(1)

Brief Recipients

135

(1)

Price

135

(1)

Production

135

(2)

Chapter 7 Perfume Creation: The Role of the Perfumer

137

(8)

Les Small

Perfumery Degrees of Freedom

137

(2)

The Alcoholic Fragrance

139

(2)

Development of Other Products

141

(3)

Soap

141

(1)

Shampoo

142

(1)

Shower and Bath Gel

143

(1)

Antiperspirant

144

(1)

Conclusion

144

(1)

Reference

144

(1)

Chapter 8 Measurement of Fragrance Perception

145

(13)

Anne Richardson

Introduction

145

(1)

Market Research

146

(1)

Focus Groups

147

(1)

Quantitative Descriptive Analysis

147

(1)

Sensory Analysis

147

(6)

Threshold

148

(1)

Intensity

149

(1)

Quality

150

(1)

Statistical Techniques

151

(2)

Psychology of Perfume

153

(1)

The Business Scents Brief

154

(2)

Definition of the Appropriate Odour Area

154

(2)

Analysis of Ingredients to Convey the Appropriate Odour Characteristics

156

(1)

Creating Fragrances for the Future

156

(2)

Chapter 9 The Application of Fragrance

158

(16)

Judi Beerling

The Role of an Applications Department

158

(1)

Product Formulations

159

(10)

Fine Fragrance

160

(1)

Vegetable Soap

161

(2)

Aerosol Antiperspirant

163

(3)

Shampoo

166

(2)

Shower and Bath Gel

168

(1)

Stability Testing

169

(4)

Humidity Testing

170

(1)

Light Testing

171

(1)

Assessment and Reporting of Results

171

(2)

Bibliography

173

(1)

Chapter 10 The Safety and Toxicology of Fragrances

174

(14)

Steve Meakins

Introduction

174

(1)

Self-regulation

174

(3)

Safety Assessment

177

(9)

Skin Irritation

178

(1)

Skin Sensitization

179

(3)

Photoeffects

182

(1)

Neurotoxicity

183

(2)

Reproductive Effects

185

(1)

Natural Ingredients

186

(1)

Conclusions

186

(1)

References

186

(2)

Chapter 11 Volatility and Substantivity

188

(14)

Keith D. Perring

Perfume Creation and Physical Chemistry

188

(1)

Perfume Ingredient Volatility

189

(4)

Perfume Polarity

193

(4)

Substantivity and Retention

197

(3)

Conclusions

200

(1)

References

201

(1)

Chapter 12 Natural Product Analysis in the Fragrance Industry

202

(14)

Robin Clery

Introduction

202

(1)

Natural Product Analysis

202

(4)

The Traditional Approach

203

(1)

The Headspace Approach

204

(2)

Analytical Techniques Used in the Fragrance Industry

206

(6)

Extraction

206

(1)

Gas-Liquid Chromatography

207

(4)

Preparative Liquid Chromatography

211

(1)

Positive Identification

212

(1)

Headspace Collection

213

(2)

References

215

(1)

Chapter 13 Chemoreception

216

(11)

Charles Sell

Background

216

(1)

Theories

217

(3)

Biological Facts

220

(3)

Misconceptions

223

(2)

Conclusions

225

(1)

References

226

(1)

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The Chemistry of Fragrances

Summary

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials