The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating A

The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating offers an ethnographically informed perspective on the ways in which people use food to make sense of life in an increasingly interconnected world. Uses food as a central idiom for teaching about culture and addresses broad themes such as globalization, capitalism, market economies, and consumption practices Spanning 5 continents, features studies from 11 countries-Japan, China, Russia, Ukraine, Germany, France, Burkina Faso, Chile, Trinidad, Mexico, and the United States Offers discussion of such hot topics as sushi, fast food, gourmet foods, and food scares and contamination

James L. Watson is Fairbank Professor of Chinese Society and Professor of Anthropology at Harvard University. His books include Golden Arches East: McDonald’s in East Asia(edited 1998), Village Life in Hong Kong (with Rubie Watson, 2004), and Between Two Cultures (edited, Blackwell, 1977).

Melissa L. Caldwell is Assistant Professor of Anthropology at University of California, Santa Cruz. She is the author of Not by Bread Alone: Social Support in the New Russia (2004).

Notes on Contributors

vii

Editors' Acknowledgments

ix

Acknowledgments to Sources

x

Introduction

1

(10)

James L. Watson and Melissa L. Caldwell

Part I Food and Globalization

11

(93)

Introduction

11

(93)

1 How Sushi Went Global

13

(8)

Theodore C. Bestor

2 French Beans for the Masses: A Modern Historical Geography of Food in Burkina Faso

21

(21)

Susanne Freidberg

3 Fresh Demand: The Consumption of Chilean Produce in the United States

42

(12)

Walter L. Goldfrank

4 Coca-Cola: A Black Sweet Drink from Trinidad

54

(16)

Daniel Miller

5 China's Big Mac Attack

70

(10)

James L. Watson

6 Of Hamburger and Social Space: Consuming McDonald's in Beijing

80

(24)

Yunxiang Yan

Part II Gentrification, Yuppification, and Domesticating Tastes

104

(111)

Introduction

104

(59)

7 Children's Food and Islamic Dietary Restrictions in Xi'an

106

(16)

Maris Boyd Gillette

8 The Rise of Yuppie Coffees and the Reimagination of Class in the United States

122

(22)

William Roseberry

9 Crafting Grand Cru Chocolates in Contemporary France

144

(19)

Susan J. Terrio

10 Globalized Childhood? Kentucky Fried Chicken in Beijing

163

(17)

Eriberto P. Lozada, Jr.

11 Domesticating the French Fry: McDonald's and Consumerism in Moscow

180

(17)

Melissa L. Caldwell

12 "India Shopping": Indian Grocery Stores and Transnational Configurations of Belonging

197

(18)

Purnima Mankekar

Part III The Political Economy of Food

215

(92)

Introduction

215

(2)

13 Food and the Counterculture: A Story of Bread and Politics

217

(18)

Warren Belasco

14 Industrial Tortillas and Folkloric Pepsi: The Nutritional Consequences of Hybrid Cuisines in Mexico

235

(16)

Jeffrey M. Pilcher

15 Food, Hunger, and the State

251

(8)

Susan Brownell

16 The Bakers of Bernburg and the Logics of Communism and Capitalism

259

(17)

Hans Buechler and Judith-Maria Buechler

17 The Global Food Fight

276

(10)

Robert Paarlberg

18 Half-lives and Healthy Bodies: Discourses on "Contaminated" Food and Healing in Post-Chernobyl Ukraine

286

(13)

Sarah Drue Phillips

19 Mad Cow Mysteries

299

(8)

Harriet Ritvo

Index

307

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The Cultural Politics of Food and Eating A Reader

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

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