Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress

This broad-reaching collection of essays constitutes a thorough introduction to the fields and methodologies concerned with studies of textiles and dress of the Middle Ages. New themes and critical viewpoints from many disciplines are brought to bear on the medieval material in the areas of archaeology, art and architecture, economics, law, history, literature, religion, and textile technology. The contributors address surviving objects and artifacts and interpret representations in texts and images. The articles extend in time from the fifth to the sixteenth centuries, and cover Europe from Scandinavia, England, and Ireland in the north, to Italy and the Mediterranean basin in the south. Emphasis is placed on the significant role of trade and cultural exchanges as they impact appearance and its constituent materials.

DTsirTe G. Koslin teaches dress and textile courses in the graduate department of Museum Studies: Costume and Textile at SUNY’s Fashion Institute of Technology.

Janet E. Snyder teaches the history of art and architecture in the Division of Art of the College of Creative Arts at West Virginia University.

Introduction--Désirée G. Koslin & Janet E. Snyder
The Early Middle Ages
Appearance and Ideology: Creating Distinctions between Clerics and Lay Persons in Early Medieval Gaul--Bonnie Effros
From Self-sufficiency to Commerce: Structural and Artefactual Evidence for Textile Manufacture in Eastern England in the Pre-conquest Period--Nina Crummy
Dressing the Part: Depictions of Noble Costume in Irish High Crosses--Margaret Williams
The Central Middle Ages
Marie de France's Bisclavret: What the Werewolf Will and Will Not Wear--Gloria Thomas Gilmore
From Content to Form: Court Clothing in Mid-Twelfth-Century Northern French Sculpture--Janet Snyder
Fashion in French Crusade Literature: Desiring Infidel Textiles--Sarah-Grace Heller
Christ as A Windblown Sleeve: The Ambiguity of Clothing as Sign in Gottfried von Straßburg's Tristan--Margarita Yanson
Addressing the Law: Costume as Signifier in Medieval Legal Miniatures--Susan L'Engle
The Late Middle Ages
From Battlefield to Court: The Invention of Fashion in the Fourteenth Century--Odile Blanc
Unraveling the Mystery of Jan van Eyck's Cloths of Honor: The Ghent Altarpiece--Donna Cottrell
Marked Difference: Earrings and "the Other" in Fifteenth-Century Flemish Art--Penny Howell Jolly
The Margaret Fitzgerald Tomb Effigy: A Late Medieval Headdress and Gown in St. Canice's Cathedral, Kilkenny--Elizabeth Wincott Heckett
"As proud as a dog in a doublet": The Importance of Clothing in The Shoemaker's Holiday--Linda Anderson

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Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress Objects, Texts, Images

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