Introduction to Coastal Processes and

The world's coastlines represent a myriad of dynamic and constantly changing environments. Heavily settled and intensely used areas, they are of enormous importance to humans and understanding how they are shaped and change is crucial to our future. Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology, Second Editionbegins by discussing coastal systems and shows how these systems link to the processes examined in detail throughout the book. These include the morphodynamic paradigm, Quaternary sea-level fluctuations, tides, waves and sediment transport. Later chapters explore fluvial deltas, estuaries, beaches and barriers, coastal sand dunes and geologically-influenced coasts such as cliffs, coral reefs and atolls. A new chapter addresses the forward-facing aspect of coastal morphodynamics, including the ways in which coasts respond to rapid climate changes such as present day global warming.Also new to this second edition is a chapter on future coasts which considers the wider effects of coastal change on other important aspects of coastal systems, including ecology, management, socio-cultural activities, built and natural heritage, and archaeology. Case studies using examples from around the world illustrate theory in practice and bring the subject to life. Each chapter starts by outlining the 'aims' and ends with questions to allow you to track your progress. This book is accompanied by additional resources online at www.hodderplus.com/geography including: Answers to the questions available to download as MP3 files Expanded case studies with colour photos, links to relevant websites and a map link to pinpoint the case study location Interactive multiple choice questions and worked examples.

Gerhard Masselink is Professor of Coastal Geomorphology, University of Plymouth, UK Michael G. Hughes is Honorary Research Associate in Geosciences, University of Sydney, Australia Jasper Knight is a Lecturer in Geography, Victoria University of Wellington, New Zealand

Preface	p. ix
List of symbols	p. xi
Costal Systems	p. 1
Aims	p. 1
Introduction	p. 1
Coastal classification	p. 4
Morphodynamic approaches to coastal systems	p. 8
Morphodynamic behaviour of coastal systems	p. 15
Coastal systems and long-term change	p. 19
Summary	p. 21
Reflective questions	p. 22
Further reading	p. 22
Sean Level	p. 23
Aims	p. 23
Introduction	p. 23
Causes of sea-level change	p. 25
Pleistocene climate and sea levels	p. 32
Holocene sea-level transgression	p. 36
Present sea-level rise	p. 39
Present and future sea-level changes	p. 42
Summary	p. 44
Reflective questions	p. 45
Further reading	p. 45
Tides	p. 46
Aims	p. 46
Introduction	p. 46
The astronomical tide-generating force	p. 47
The Equilibrium Theory of tides	p. 52
The Dynamic Theory of tides	p. 57
Predicting tides	p. 62
Classification of tides	p. 67
Summary	p. 69
Reflective questions	p. 69
Further reading	p. 70
Waves	p. 71
Aims	p. 71
Introduction	p. 71
Characteristics and analysis of natural waves	p. 73
Wave formation and prediction	p. 76
Linear wave theory	p. 79
Wave processes outside the surf zone	p. 86
Wave processes in the surf and swash zone	p. 92
Wave modelling	p. 102
Summary	p. 103
Reflective questions	p. 104
Further reading	p. 104
Sediments, Boundary Layers and transport	p. 105
Aims	p. 105
Introduction	p. 105
Sediment properties	p. 106
Fluid properties	p. 117
Benthic boundary layers	p. 123
Sediment dynamics	p. 129
Bedforms	p. 139
Summary	p. 146
Reflective questions	p. 147
Further reading	p. 147
Fluvial-Dominated Coastal Environments-Delts	p. 148
Aims	p. 148
Introduction	p. 148
Galloway's classification of deltas	p. 149
Delta morphology	p. 153
The role of mass wasting and gravity	p. 157
Delta front morphodynamics	p. 159
Climatic controls on delta development	p. 169
Delta dynamics and human activity	p. 174
Summary	p. 175
Reflective questions	p. 176
Further reading	p. 176
Tide-Docnated Coastal Environmnets-Estuaies	p. 178
Aims	p. 178
Introduction	p. 178
Estuary morphology	p. 179
Estuary hydrodynamics	p. 179
The turbidity maximum zone: Cohesive sediment dynamics	p. 191
Summary	p. 204
Reflective questions	p. 209
Further reading	p. 210
Wave-Dominated Coastal-The shoreface, Beaches and Barriers	p. 211
Aims	p. 211
Introduction	p. 211
Theshoreface	p. 212
Beaches	p. 220
Barriers and related accumulation features	p. 242
Beaches, barriers and human activity	p. 256
Summary	p. 264
Reflective questions	p. 265
Further reading	p. 265
Coastal sand dunes	p. 267
Aims	p. 267
Introduction	p. 267
Formation of coastal dunes	p. 270
Coastal dune morphology	p. 283
Coastal dune evolution	p. 290
Beach-dune interactions	p. 293
Dune management	p. 295
Summary	p. 296
Reflective questions	p. 296
Further readingp297
Geologically-Conrolled Coastal environment-Rocky and Coral Coasts	p. 298
Aims	p. 298
Introduction	p. 298
Rocky coast processes	p. 299
Cliffs	p. 309
Shore platforms	p. 313
The role of inheritance along rocky coasts	p. 320
Introduction to coral coasts	p. 324
Ecology	p. 325
Reef growth	p. 331
Types of coral reefs and their formation	p. 332
Reef morphology and Quaternary sea-level changes	p. 337
Reef islands	p. 342
Summary	p. 347
Reflective questions	p. 348
Further reading	p. 348
Coasts and Climate	p. 349
Aims	p. 349
Introduction	p. 349
Detection, attribution and quasi-equilibrium in systems	p. 350
Development of zonal climates	p. 351
Zonal climates, coastal processes and geomorphology	p. 356
Climate variability over decadal to seasonal time scales	p. 363
Summary	p. 369
Reflective questions	p. 369
Further reading	p. 369
Future Coasts	p. 371
Aims	p. 371
Introduction	p. 371
Coastal resources and sustainabiliry	p. 377
Valuing the coast	p. 379
Managing coastal change	p. 382
Summary	p. 390
Reflective questions	p. 390
Further reading	p. 391
References	p. 392
Index	p. 413
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Introduction to Coastal Processes and Geomorphology, Second Edition

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