Markets in Fashion: A phenomenological

This book is an analysis of the economics of the fashion photography industry, written by one of the world's brightest young economic sociologists. Aspers shows how photographers gain their identity in the market and how markets are constructed at the interface of economy and art. Status, identity and style are seen as hugely important and the author makes a case for these factors being of major significance in all markets of an aesthetic nature.

Patrick Aspers is a researcher in The Max-Planck-Institute for the Study of Societies in Cologne, and Associate Professor in the Department of Sociology at Stockholm University.

Foreword

ix

Karin Knorr Cetina

Preface to the second edition

xiv

Preface to the first edition

xv

Introduction

1

(10)

Research questions

2

(1)

Photography and fashion

2

(2)

Art, money and craft in photography

4

(2)

The production of pictures

6

(4)

A note on the organization of this book

10

(1)

The study of markets

11

(18)

Types of markets

11

(3)

Economic theories of markets

14

(4)

Sociological theories of markets

18

(9)

Summary

27

(2)

An overview of the fashion photography business

29

(31)

The markets

30

(3)

The actors who produce fashion photographs

33

(21)

The magazine

54

(1)

The role of the advertising agency

55

(3)

Summary

58

(2)

Fashion photographers as producers

60

(41)

The meaning structure of the producers

61

(6)

The customers

67

(1)

To work for a magazine

67

(12)

Working for an advertising agency

79

(5)

Two meaning structures -- two markets?

84

(1)

The low-fashion photographer

85

(3)

The two types of photographers look at each other

88

(4)

Generalizing the results

92

(6)

Elevators of status

98

(1)

Summary

99

(2)

The consumers of fashion photographs

101

(26)

Are there two different types of consumers?

101

(2)

The role of magazines

103

(2)

The fashion editor

105

(10)

The advertising agencies

115

(10)

Comparing the fashion editor and the art director

125

(1)

Summary

125

(2)

The two markets for fashion photography

127

(20)

Markets through phenomenology

127

(1)

The two production markets for fashion photography

128

(5)

Gradual changes and the role of status

133

(1)

Radical change: transcending the meaning structure

134

(8)

This study and the theories employed

142

(3)

Summary

145

(2)

Towards a phenomenological sociology

147

(10)

Aesthetics in markets and society

147

(5)

Markets as a form of social interaction

152

(3)

The role of empirical phenomenology

155

(2)

Appendix A: a guide to phenomenological sociology

157

(32)

The action perspective

157

(3)

Objectivism versus subjectivism

160

(4)

Phenomenology

164

(1)

The philosopher: Edmund Husserl

164

(8)

The social scientist: Alfred Schultz

172

(9)

Phenomenologically inspired sociology

181

(1)

Empirical phenomenology

182

(7)

Appendix B: empirical work

189

(10)

Notes

199

(26)

Bibliography

225

(13)

Index

238

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Markets in Fashion: A phenomenological approach

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials