Only the Nails Remain Scenes from the Balkan

Merrill, a poet and journalist, spent much of the past decade traveling through the Balkans; here, in a powerful and enigmatic account, he chronicles those travels. Taking the title for his book from a piece by Slovenia's best-known living poet, Tomaz salamun, he tells a story of the war-torn region through the lives of its literary and cultural communities.

Christopher Merrill is the author or translator of more than a dozen books. He lives in Iowa City, where he is the Director of the International Writing Program at the University of Iowa

Acknowledgments

ix

A Note on Pronunciation

xi

Maps

xii

Prologue

xv

Part I: August-September 1992

Journey

3

(14)

Pohorje

17

(12)

Ljubljana I

29

(20)

Triglav

49

(10)

Ljubljana II

59

(18)

Venice

77

(14)

Vilenica

91

(14)

Part II: December 1992-February 1993

Croatia

105

(32)

Dalmatia

137

(16)

Serbia

153

(32)

Montenegro

185

(22)

Macedonia

207

(18)

Kosovo

225

(12)

Flight

237

(22)

Part III: May 1993-April 1996

Sarajevo I

259

(14)

Sarajevo II

273

(20)

Mostar

293

(10)

Sarajevo III

303

(26)

Albania

329

(10)

Expedition

339

(14)

Barcelona

353

(12)

Epilogue

365

(8)

Glossary of Names and Terms

373

(2)

Select Bibliography

375

(12)

Index

387

(14)

About the Author

401

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Only the Nails Remain Scenes from the Balkan Wars

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials