Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method

, by Hollen, Norma R.; Kundel, Carolyn J.

Note: Supplemental materials are not guaranteed with Rental or Used book purchases.

ISBN: 9780139380938 | 0139380930
Cover: Paperback
Copyright: 8/20/1998

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This concise book delivers superb coverage of how to design and make garments ranging from evening dresses to sleepwear.KEY TOPICS: This book contains special sections on pattern-making for men's, boys', and girls' clothing, plus many useful tools such as a checklist for completing patterns and design inspiration sheets. Includes important discussions about the use of Computer Assisted Design (CAD), and features a new appendix that includes a list of computer software currently being used in today's fashion market. For every future professional in the apparel or fashion industry.

1 The Apparel Manufacturing Process

(9)

Introduction

(1)

Designing the Line

(1)

Precosting the Line

(1)

First Patterns

(2)

Sample Garments

(1)

Production Patterns

(1)

Pattern Grading

(1)

Marker Making

(1)

Cutting

(1)

Garment Assembly

(1)

Pressing and Finishing

(1)

Final Costing

(1)

New Technology on Display

(2)

2 Patternmaking Tips, Tools, and Rules

(16)

The Flat-Pattern Method

(1)

Applying the Study of Flat Pattern

(1)

Creating Original Clothing

(4)

Supplies and Equipment

(3)

Design Analysis

(1)

Use of the Muslin Shell in Designing

(1)

Understanding Darts

(1)

Dart Size, Length, and Shape

(2)

Pattern Making with Darts

(1)

Folding Darts

(1)

Labeling the Pattern

(1)

Adding Seam Allowances

(1)

Accuracy

(1)

Check List for Completing Patterns

(1)

3 Bodices

(45)

Moving Darts: Pivot Method

(4)

Combining Darts: Pivot Method

(3)

Dividing Darts: Pivot Method

(2)

Darts That Fan Out

(1)

Moving Darts: Slash Method

(3)

Combining Darts: Slash Method

(1)

Dividing Darts: Slash Method

(2)

Decorative Darts: Slash Method

(1)

Other Methods of Moving Darts

(2)

Released Darts

(2)

Gathers

(4)

Seamlines Made from Darts

(7)

Yokes

(6)

Other Bodice Patterns

(2)

Dart End Shapes

(1)

Problems

(4)

4 Necklines and Facings

(17)

Lowered Neckline

(2)

Boat Neckline

(1)

Built-up Neckline

(1)

Cowl Neckline

(3)

Sundress

(1)

Lingerie

(1)

About Facings

(1)

Fitted Neckline Facing

(1)

Neckline-Center Front Facing

(1)

Bias Facing

(1)

Button and Buttonhole Closure

(2)

Armhole Facing for Sleeveless Garments

(1)

Shaped Facing: Armhole

(1)

Neckline-Armhole Facing: Lowered Neckline

(2)

Problems

(1)

5 Collars

(22)

Collar Types

(1)

Collar Styles

(2)

Flat Collars

(2)

Full-Roll Collars

(3)

Partial-Roll Collars

(1)

Bias Collars

(4)

Shawl or Cut-in-One Collars

101

(4)

Collar Variations

105

(1)

Full-Roll or Partial-Roll Collar on a Lowered Front Neckline

105

(1)

Flat Collar on Double-Breasted Front

105

(3)

Problems

108

(2)

6 Skirts

110

(35)

The Basic Skirt

111

(1)

Skirt Darts

112

(2)

Flare at the Side Seam

114

(1)

Dart Designs: Flare

114

(1)

Converting Darts to Flare

115

(1)

Open-End Darts

116

(1)

Trouser Pleats

116

(1)

Moving and Combining Skirt Back Darts: Slash Method

116

(1)

Moving and Combining Darts: Pivot Method

117

(1)

Moving and Dividing Front Darts: Slash Method

118

(1)

Converting Darts to Gathers

119

(1)

Yokes

120

(1)

Pockets

120

(1)

Gored Skirts

121

(12)

Circular Skirts

133

(1)

Pleated Skirts

134

(6)

Wrap Skirts

140

(2)

Waistbands

142

(2)

Problems

144

(1)

7 Pants

145

(10)

Making a Basic Pants Pattern

146

(1)

Measurements for Pants Patterns

146

(1)

Straight-Leg Pants Style

147

(4)

Designing with the Pants Pattern

151

(1)

Harem Pants

152

(1)

Culottes or Divided Skirt

152

(2)

Problems

154

(1)

8 Dresses

155

(22)

The Basic Sheath

156

(2)

Darts in the Basic Sheath

158

(1)

Sheath Dress Designs

159

(7)

The Princess Dress

166

(2)

The Kimono Sheath

168

(1)

Blouses from a Shortened Sheath Dress Pattern

169

(1)

Dress with Elastic in the Waistline Seam

170

(2)

Problems

172

(5)

9 Sleeves

177

(25)

The Basic Sleeve

178

(2)

Cuffs

180

(2)

Moving Darts

182

(1)

Sleeve Facing

183

(1)

Designing with Sleeves

184

(5)

The Kimono Sleeve

189

(3)

The Batwing Sleeve

192

(1)

The Raglan Sleeve

192

(6)

Cap Sleeve

198

(1)

Sleeve Variations

199

(1)

Problems

200

(2)

10 Sleepwear

202

(7)

Nightgown with Straight Yoke

203

(1)

Nightgown with V-Shaped Yoke

204

(1)

Nightgown with Curved Yoke

204

(1)

Gathered Petal Sleeve Detail

205

(1)

Asymmetric Yoke Detail

206

(1)

Scalloped Yoke Detail

206

(2)

Problems

208

(1)

11 Jackets

209

(14)

Armhole and Sleeve for a Suit or Coat

210

(2)

Jacket with Notched Collar

212

(1)

Jacket with Side Tucks

212

(1)

Jacket with Built-up Neckline

213

(1)

Jacket with Revere Collar

214

(1)

Jacket with Notched Collar

215

(1)

Jacket with Double-Breasted Double Revere Collar

215

(1)

Jacket with S-Shaped Curve

216

(1)

Long Jacket with Revere Collar

217

(1)

Notched Collar and Lapel

217

(2)

One-Piece Jacket Sleeve with Tucks

219

(1)

Two-Piece Jacket Sleeve

219

(3)

Problems

222

(1)

12 Coats and Capes

223

(7)

Cape with Yoke

224

(1)

Single-Breasted Dress Coat

225

(1)

Coat-Style Sleeve

226

(1)

Double-Breasted Raincoat with Notched Collar

227

(2)

Problems

229

(1)

13 Shirt and Pants Patterns for Men and Boys

230

(11)

Basic Dress Shirt

231

(1)

Shirt Sleeve

232

(1)

Two-Part Collar

232

(1)

Sport Shirt with Short Sleeves

233

(1)

Western Shirt

234

(1)

Tuxedo Shirt

234

(1)

Vest with Collar

235

(1)

Knit Shirt with Raglan Sleeves

236

(1)

Basic Pants with Diagonal Side Pocket

237

(1)

Pants with Horizontal Front Pocket

237

(1)

Pants with Front Pleat

238

(1)

Bathrobe with Kimono Sleeves

238

(2)

Problems

240

(1)

14 Clothing for Girls

241

(17)

Styles

242

(1)

Self-Help Features

242

(1)

Fibers and Fabrics

242

(1)

Trims

242

(1)

Growth Features

242

(1)

Saving Money

242

(1)

Patternwork

243

(1)

Peter Pan Collar

243

(1)

Bertha Collar

243

(1)

Sailor Collar

244

(1)

Short Puffed Sleeve

244

(1)

Baby Doll Sleeve

245

(1)

Flared or Bell Sleeve

245

(1)

Dress with Yoke and Pleats

245

(1)

Dress Pattern with Four Different Yokes

246

(1)

Vest

247

(1)

Dress with Princess-Line Bodice and Gathered Skirt

247

(1)

Dress with Tucks

248

(1)

Slipdress and Jacket

249

(1)

Jumper with Bib

250

(1)

Nightgown

251

(1)

Basic Straight Skirt Drafted from Four Measurements

251

(2)

Full-Circle Skirt

253

(1)

Gathered Skirt

253

(1)

Pull-on Unisex Pants with No Side Seams or Zipper

254

(1)

Jackets and Coats

254

(1)

Princess-Line Coat

254

(2)

Problems

256

(2)

15 Patterns for Knit Garments

258

(12)

Stretch and Recovery

259

(1)

Variation in Stretch

259

(1)

Shrinkage

259

(1)

Patterns for Knits

259

(1)

Length and Width Reductions

260

(1)

Dartless Bodice Block with Sleeve for a Knit with Slight or Moderate Stretch

261

(2)

Close-Fitting Bodice for Superstretch Knit

263

(1)

Body-Conforming Short Skirt Made of Superstretch Knit

264

(1)

Bicycle Shorts for Superstretch Knit Fabric with Spandex

265

(1)

Bodysuits

266

(1)

Test Pattern with a Trial Garment

267

(1)

Sewing Suggestions for Knits

268

(2)

16 Knockoff Designs and Garment Specifications

270

(12)

Taking the Garment Apart at the Seamlines

271

(1)

Using the Rub-off Technique

271

(1)

Using the Paper and Tracing-Wheel Method

272

(3)

Using a Tape Measure

275

(1)

Garment Specifications

276

(1)

Knit Blouse Specifications

276

(3)

Woven Pants Specifications

279

(3)

17 Evening Wear

282

(10)

Evening Gown with Trumpet Flare Skirt

283

(1)

Asymmetric Top with One Bare Shoulder

284

(1)

Strapless Top

285

(2)

Overskirts

287

(1)

Necklines

287

(1)

Waistlines

287

(1)

Combinations of Fabrics

288

(1)

Back Interest in Gowns

288

(1)

Cutaway Areas

288

(1)

Flared Ruffle Front Detail

288

(1)

Layers of Fabric

289

(1)

Jackets with Fancy Trims

289

(1)

The Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve

289

(1)

Sleeve with a V Point at the Wrist

290

(1)

Shirred Cap Sleeves

291

(1)

18 Decorative Design

292

(25)

Appliques

293

(2)

Pockets

295

(1)

Bows

296

(1)

3-D Flowers

296

(1)

Tucks

297

(2)

Embroidery

299

(1)

Braid Trim

299

(1)

Fringe Trim

300

(1)

Color Blocking

300

(1)

Piping

301

(3)

Quilt Designs

304

(1)

Frogs

304

(2)

Stripes

306

(1)

Plaids

306

(3)

Tabs

309

(1)

Zippers

309

(1)

Buttons and Buttonholes

309

(3)

Belts

312

(1)

Contrasting Colored Cuffs, Collars, and Pockets

312

(1)

Asymmetric Designs

312

(1)

Shirring

312

(1)

Appropriate Fabrics for Patterns

312

(5)

Appendix A Slopers

317

(23)

Appendix B Metric Conversion Table

340

(2)

Appendix C Standard Body Measurement Charts

342

(2)

Appendix D Other Resources for Apparel Pattern Makers

344

(5)

Index

349

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Pattern Making by the Flat Pattern Method

Summary

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials