The Mountaineering Handbook Modern Tools and Techniques That Will Take You to the Top

Part 1: Mountaineering

1. Introduction

Who's It For?

2. Let's Go Climbing Together

Get Your Head Ready

Get Your Skills Ready

Fast and Light

Get Your Body Ready

Get Your Gear Ready

Get Started

Base Camp

The Alpine Start

The Approach

The Climb

Onto the Rock

Retreat

Be Resourceful

Be Tough

Have Fun

Part 2: The Approach

3. Moving Fast on the Trail

On the Approach

On the Climb

4. Wilderness Navigation

Navigation with Maps

Handy Navigation Features

Resorting to Your Compass

Altimeters

New-School Mapping

GPS and UTM

Estimating Travel Time

Lost

Another Way of Navigating

5. Mountain Hazards

Rockfall and Icefall

Rain

River Crossings

Lightning

Avalanche

Altitude

Heat and Cold

Sun and UV

6. Mountain Weather

What You Already Know

Clouding the Picture

When Weather Gets a Lift

Climatology

Predicting Mountain Weather Using Local Observations

Lifting the Fog

7. The Alpine Start

Why Start Early

Morning Begins at Sundown

Turning Off the Lights

The Dread Bivouac

Part 3: Rock

8. Climb Rating Systems

Climb with Class

The YDS

Ice with That?

Making the Grade

What Does All This Mean to Mountaineers?

9. Your Climbing Rope

The Basics

Single, Half, Twin

What Specs Are Unimportant?

What Specs Matter?

Recommendations for Mountaineering Ropes

Handling and Caring for Your Rope

10. Equipment for Rock Climbing

Climbing Harness

Belay/Rappel Brakes

Helmet

Carabiners

Runners and Slings

Cordelette

Protection Hardware

Nut Tool

Rap Ring

Knife

11. Climbing Forces

Physics 001

Static Forces

Dynamic Forces and Leader Falls

Real-World Influences on Fall Forces

Strength of Safety-System Components

Force Multiplication

12. Anchors

Tying In

Simple Anchors

Complex Anchors

What's a Mountaineer to Do?

13. Rappelling

Get Connected

Rappel Anchors

Getting Started

Joining Two Ropes for Rappelling

Final Preparations

Self-Belay While Rappelling

Cast Off

As You Alight

Last Is Best

Freeing a Stuck Rope

14. Climbing on Rock

Preliminaries

Belaying the Leader

Leading

Climbing

Placing Pro

Belaying the Second

Seconding

Changeover

Moving Fast on Rock

Part 4: Snow and Ice

15. Equipment for Snow and Ice Climbing

Mountaineering Ax

Crampons

Snowshoes

Trekking Poles

Pulkke

Goggles

Shovel

Protection Hardware and Personal Gear

16. Climbing Snow and Ice

Ascending Snow

Crampon Techniques

Mountaineering Ax Techniques

Descending

Roped Travel on Snow

Climbing with Protection

Moving Fast on Snow

Climbing Ice

Part 5: Base Camp Basics

17. Lightweight Mountaineering

Step Lightly

18. Equipment for Base Camp

Boots and Shoes

Backpacks

Clothing Systems

Shelter Systems

Sleeping Systems

Fuel and Stoves

Ten Essentials Rethought for Mountaineering

First-Aid Kit

Non-Essentials

Ten Essentials for Cooking

Water Purification

19. Performance Nutrition for Mountaineers

Calorie Consumption

Partial Repletion Is Best

Hydration

Electrolyte Repletion

Calories on the Go

Throwing Fat on the Fire

Protein--You Eat What You Are

Reality Nutrition and Altitude

A Dog's Breakfast

Nutrition on the Go

Get Started as Soon as You Stop

Repletion Starts with Water

Then Total Calories

Reality Dining--Again

Catching Up on Electrolytes

Nutritional Supplements

Sports Supplements

Vegetarian Mountaineers

20. Training for Mountaineering

Follow the Training Advice of German Existentialist

Philosophers

VO2max--The Measure of Aerobic Fitness

Percentage of VO2max--The Measure of Your Personal Aerobic Exercise Intensity

Heart Rate--The Measure for Most of Us

How Long Does Training Take?

At What Intensity Should I Train?

What Aerobic Exercises Work for Mountaineers?

Strength Training

Persistence

Mental Training

21. Wilderness First Aid

Wilderness First-Aid Instruction

First-Aid Kit

Shocking

Takeaway Example

Psychological First Aid

22. Protecting the Natural Environment

Leave No Trace

Access

Be Like Ed

Part 6: Advanced Techniques

23. Lightweight Ropes

Rappelling

Belaying the Leader on a Thin Rope

Belaying the Second

Releasing an Autoblock

24. Roped Parties

Simul-Climbing

Fixed Ropes

Rappelling by a Group

25. Self-Rescue

Think Ahead

Plan Your Escape

Ascending

Pulley Systems

Assisted Descending

Evacuation

26. Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue

How They Get That Way

Organizing the Rope Team

Off We Go

Safe Camping

When Luck Runs Out

Part 7: The Human Dimensions of Mountaineering

27. Human Factors and Not Technical Factors?

Risk Management and Decision Making

Controlling Fear

Leadership

Emergency Response

28. Why Do We Do It?

Travel Solo

Travel with Charlie

Appendix A. Additional Skills

Appendix B. Resources

Appendix C. Glossary

Index

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