Baghdad Without a Map and Other Misadventures

This wild and comic tale of Middle East misadventure is "a very funny and frequently insightful look at the world's most combustible region. Fearlessness is a valuable quality in a travel writer, and Mr. Horwitz . . . seems as intrepid as they come".--The New York Times Book Review.

Acknowledgments

ix

Prologue: Love at First Sight

1

(4)

1. We Must Go to the East

5

(8)

2. YEMEN: Confessions of a Qat-Eater

13

(16)

3. YEMEN: For You I Make a Special Deal

29

(20)

4. PERSIAN GULF: The Strait of Hoummos

49

(23)

5. CAIRO DAYS: Ozymandias Slept Here

72

(17)

6. CAIRO NIGHTS: Dancing Sheik to Sheik

89

(14)

7. BAGHDAD: In the Land Without Weather

103

(17)

8. THE IRAQ-IRAN FRONT: Bodies

120

(12)

9. THE JORDAN RIVER: I Came for the Waters

132

(14)

10. LIBYA: The Colonel's Big Con

146

(25)

11. KHARTOUM: This Is the Way the World Ends

171

(21)

12. SOUTHERN SUDAN: Six Dinka Deep

192

(19)

13. ARABIAN FLIGHTS: Sky-High over Islam

211

(8)

14. TO BEIRUT: Jusqu'au Boutiste

219

(16)

15. TEHRAN: The Imam Is in the People's Hands

235

(10)

16. TEHRAN: Searching for the Twelfth Imam

245

(16)

17. EXODUS FROM EGYPT: Metal Fatigue

261

(6)

Epilogue: No One Makes Love to Iraq

267

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Baghdad Without a Map and Other Misadventures in Arabia : And Other Misadventures in Arabia

Summary

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials