Balkan Ghosts A Journey Through History

This new edition includes six opinion pieces written by Robert Kaplan about the Balkans between l996 and 2000 beginning just after the implementation of the Dayton Peace Accords and ending after the conclusion of the Kosovo war, with the removal of Slobodan Milosevic from power

Robert D. Kaplan, a correspondent for The Atlantic Monthly, is the author of ten books on travel and foreign affairs translated into many languages. They included Eastward to Tartary: Travels in the Balkans, the Middle East, and the Caucasus, a sequel to Balkan Ghosts.

Foreword

ix

Assorted Commentary by Author

xiii

Preface

xxxvii

Acknowledgments

xxxix

Map of the Balkans

xli

Prologue: Saints, Terrorists, Blood, and Holy Water

xliii

PART I. YUGOSLAVIA: HISTORICAL OVERTURES

1 Croatia: "Just So They Could Go to Heaven"

3

(26)

2 Old Serbia and Albania: Balkan "West Bank"

29

(20)

3 Macedonia: "A Hand Thirsting Towards the Realm of the Stars"

49

(22)

4 The White City and Its Prophet

71

(8)

PART 2. ROMANIA: LATIN PASSION PLAY

5 Athenee Palace, Bucharest

79

(21)

6 The Danube's Bitter End

100

(17)

7 Moldavia: "Conditioned to Hate"

117

(17)

8 The Land Beyond Dracula's Castle: The Painted Monasteries of Bucovina

134

(14)

9 Transylvanian Voices

148

(21)

10 Transylvanian Tale: The Pied Piper's Children Go Back to Hamelin

169

(12)

11 Last Glimpses: Timisoara and Bucharest

181

(12)

PART 3. BULGARIA: TALES FROM COMMUNIST BYZANTIUM

12 "The Warmth of Each Other's Bodies"

193

(21)

13 The Price of Friendship

214

(6)

14 The Bad and the Good

220

(13)

PART 4. GREECE: WESTERN MISTRESS, EASTERN BRIDE

15 Farewell to Salonika

233

(16)

16 "Teach Me, Zorba. Teach Me to Dance!"

249

(11)

17 The Secret History

260

(22)

Epilogue: The Road to Adrianople

282

(6)

Selected Bibliography

288

(9)

Index

297

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Balkan Ghosts A Journey Through History

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials