Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products

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ISBN: 9780849339684 | 0849339685
Cover: Hardcover
Copyright: 6/19/2005

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Wake Forest Univ., Winston-Salem, NC. Reference outlines latest technologies and issues pertinent to formulation, development, testing, and clinical assessment of cosmetic skin care products. For cosmetic dermatologists.

About the Series

iii

Eric Jungermann

Preface

Contributors

xix

Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products

(2)

Zoe Diana Draelos

Introduction: How to Utilize This Text

(2)

PART I: CUTANEOUS FORMULATION ISSUES

Cutaneous Formulation Issues

(24)

Zoe Diana Draelos

Site-Specific Cutaneous Needs

(23)

Suggested Readings

(1)

Formulation for Special Populations

(8)

Zoe Diana Draelos

Gender

(1)

Age Issues

(1)

Skin Color

(1)

Hair Shaft Architecture

(1)

Sensitive Skin

(1)

Contact Dermatitis Issues

(2)

Acne Issues

(1)

Summary

(1)

References

(1)

PART II: FORMULATION DEVELOPMENT AND APPLICATION

Personal Cleansing Products: Properties and Use

(32)

Keith Ertel

Introduction

(1)

Skin Cleansing

(5)

Personal Cleanser Effects on Skin

(14)

Some Practical Considerations When Choosing a Personal Cleanser

(5)

References

(8)

Toners and Astringents

(12)

Melanie Smith

Introduction

(1)

Product Nomenclature

(1)

Function and Order of Application Within a Skin Care Regimen

(1)

Formulation Considerations

(5)

Product Claims

(1)

Claims Testing Methods

(1)

Uses in Dermatology

(1)

Adverse Reactions

(1)

Summary

(1)

References

(3)

The Dry Skin Cycle

(36)

Paul J. Matts

Anthony V. Rawlings

Introduction

(1)

Stratum Corneum and Epidermal Structure

(1)

Stratum Corneum Lipid Chemistry and Biophysics

(3)

Stratum Corneum Corneodesmosomes and Corneodesmolysis

(3)

Corneocyte Envelope Maturation and the Role of Transglutaminases

(2)

Stratum Corneum Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF)

(3)

The Effect of Humidity on Epidermal Differentiation and Stratum Corneum Quality

(1)

The Pathophysiology of Winter-and Soap-Induced Dry Skin

(3)

The ``Dry Skin Cvcle'' Model: A New Wav to Describe Induction and Propagation of the Xerosis

(3)

Management of Dry Skin

(7)

Summary and Conclusions

106

(1)

References

107

(8)

Factors Influencing Optimal Skin Care and Product Selection

115

(8)

James Q. Del Rosso

Basic Skin Care Processes

115

(1)

The Epidermal Barrier and Water Content

116

(1)

Epidermal Barrier Integrity, Function, and Repair

117

(1)

Impact of Exogenous Moisturization on Barrier Repair

117

(1)

Clinical Implications of Exogenous Moisturization

117

(1)

Components of Moisturizer Formulations

118

(1)

Balancing Effects and Cosmetic Elegance of Product Components

118

(1)

Formulation Characteristics

119

(1)

Special Additives and Ingredients

119

(1)

The Significance of Gentle Skin Cleansing

120

(1)

Basic Cleanser Formulations

120

(1)

Conclusion

120

(1)

References

121

(2)

Antiperspirants

123

(12)

John E. Wild

A. C. Lanzalaco

D. F. Swaile

Introduction

123

(1)

Antiperspirants

124

(2)

Antiperspirant Efficacy

126

(2)

Formulation

128

(3)

Formulating for the Consumer

131

(1)

Introducing New Antiperspirant Active Formulations

131

(1)

Medical Approaches to Hyperhidrosis

131

(3)

References

134

(1)

PART III: ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR SKIN TREATMENT

Sunscreens

135

(18)

J. F. Nash

Paul R. Tanner

Introduction

135

(1)

Sunscreens

136

(5)

Self-Tanning Products

141

(2)

Formulation Challenges

143

(1)

Regulatory Issues

144

(1)

Safe Sun Strategy

145

(3)

Conclusions

148

(1)

References

149

(4)

Photoprotection and the Prevention of Photocarcinogenesis

153

(14)

Nathalie Nguyen

Darrell S. Rigel

Overview

153

(1)

Relationship of UV Exposure to Skin Cancer Development

154

(1)

Spectral Differences Related to UV Photocarcinogenesis

155

(1)

Photocarcinogenesis-Decreasing Photoprotection Modalities

155

(1)

Sunscreens

156

(1)

Types of Sunscreens and Mechanisms of Action

156

(1)

Chemical Sunscreens

157

(2)

Physical Sunscreens

159

(1)

Photocarcinogenesis Reduction by Wearing Clothing

159

(1)

Behavior Modification

160

(1)

Effectiveness of Photoprotection

160

(1)

Photoprotection and Vitamin D

160

(1)

Patient Recommendations and Future Directions

161

(1)

References

162

(5)

Anti-aging Skin Care Formulations

167

(20)

Donald L. Bissett

Introduction

167

(1)

Vitamin A

167

(3)

Vitamin B3

170

(4)

Vitamin C

174

(2)

Peptides

176

(2)

Dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE)

178

(1)

Kinetion (N6-Furfuryladenine)

179

(1)

Triterpenoids

180

(1)

Ubiquinone (Co-Enzyme Q10)

181

(1)

Other Technologies

181

(1)

Discussion

181

(2)

References

183

(4)

The Role of Cosmeceuticals in Dermatology

187

(18)

David H. McDaniel

Joseph DiNardo

Joseph Lewis

What Are ``Cosmeceuticals''---Cosmetics vs. RX Drugs

187

(4)

Domestic and International Regulatory Guidelines Impacting Cosmetics

191

(1)

Categories of Currently Popular Cosmeceuticals in Dermatology

192

(7)

How to Select the ``Best'' Formulation of a Cosmeceutical

199

(1)

The Future of Cosmeceuticals

200

(2)

References

202

(3)

Skin Lightening Agents

205

(14)

Wen-Yuan Zhu

Ru-Zhi Zhang

Tyrosinase Inhibition

205

(4)

Product Reduction and Reactive Oxygen Species

209

(2)

Inhibition of Melanosome Transfer

211

(1)

Skin Turnover Acceleration

212

(1)

Traditional Chinese Medicine

213

(2)

References

215

(4)

Medical and Surgical Approaches to Skin Lightening

219

(18)

Marta I. Rendon

Jorge I. Gaviria

Introduction

219

(2)

Topical Depigmenting Agents

221

(1)

Phenolic Depigmenting Agents

221

(3)

Non-Phenolic Agents

224

(1)

Topical Cosmeceuticals

225

(1)

Botanicals

226

(1)

Physical Therapies

226

(1)

Chemical Peels

227

(1)

Microdermabrasion

228

(1)

Dermabrasion

228

(1)

Lasers

228

(2)

Our Therapeutic Approach

230

(1)

Conclusions

231

(1)

References

232

(5)

Topical Exfoliation---Clinical Effects and Formulating Considerations

237

(14)

M. Elizabeth Briden

Barbara A. Green

Exfoliation

237

(1)

Physical Exfoliants: Scratching the Surface

238

(1)

Chemical Exfoliation

239

(8)

Conclusion

247

(1)

References

247

(4)

Over-the-Counter Acne Medications

251

(22)

Theresa Chen

Yohini Appa

Introduction

251

(1)

Clinical Considerations

252

(1)

Highlights of Over-the-Counter Acne Monograph

253

(1)

Formulation of Over-the-Counter Acne Products

253

(1)

Trends in Over-the-Counter Acne Formulations

254

(1)

Advances in Over-the-Counter Acne Formulations

255

(12)

Summary

267

(1)

References

268

(5)

Acne Treatment Methodologies

273

(24)

Emmy M. Fernandez

Andrea L. Zaenglein

Diane M. Thiboutot

Introduction

273

(3)

Morphology

276

(1)

Topical Retinoid

276

(3)

Cleansers

279

(1)

Hydroxy Acids

279

(2)

Benzoyl Peroxide

281

(1)

Other Topical Treatments

281

(1)

Oral Antibiotics

281

(5)

Hormonal Therapy

286

(1)

Isotretinoin

287

(3)

Manual Treatments

290

(1)

Phototherapy

291

(1)

References

292

(5)

Topical Botanicals

297

(12)

Tracy Cornuelle

Jan Lephart

Introduction

297

(1)

Selecting Plant Species

298

(1)

Sourcing Plant Material

298

(1)

Accurate Identification of Plant Species

299

(1)

Harvesting Plant Material

299

(1)

Cosmetic Extracts

300

(2)

Standardization of Extracts

302

(1)

Quality Issues

303

(1)

Safety and Toxicology

304

(1)

Conclusions

305

(1)

References

305

(4)

Herbs in Cosmeceuticals: Are They Safe and Effective?

309

(42)

Carl Thornfeldt

Background

309

(1)

Processing Botanicals

310

(1)

Regulatory Climate

311

(1)

Adverse Reactions

311

(17)

Specific Herbs

328

(19)

Summary

347

(1)

References

347

(4)

Topical Anti-inflammatories

351

(26)

Bryan B. Fuller

Dustin R. Smith

Introduction

351

(1)

Biology of Skin Inflammation

351

(2)

Prescription and Over-the-Counter Treatments for Inflammation and Mechanism of Action

353

(8)

Anti-inflammatory Cosmeceutical ``Actives''

361

(2)

Biological Screening Assays to Identify Novel Anti-inflammatory Compounds

363

(5)

Development of Effective Topical Formulations

368

(5)

Conclusions

373

(1)

References

373

(4)

Topical Nutritional Antioxidants

377

(26)

Karen E. Burke

Introduction

377

(1)

Vitamin C

377

(2)

Vitamin E

379

(5)

Selenium

384

(2)

New Combinations of Antioxidants

386

(1)

Soy Extract: Genistein

387

(3)

Alpha-Lipoic Acid

390

(4)

Ubiquinone

394

(1)

Summary

395

(1)

References

396

(7)

What Is Next in Skin Care Cosmetic Products?

403

(6)

Lauren A. Thaman

Cosmeceuticals

403

(2)

Nutraceuticals

405

(1)

Medical Mimics

405

(1)

Customized Products

406

(1)

Skin Tone Alteration

406

(1)

Delivery Systems

407

(1)

New Users

407

(1)

The Skin Care Market

407

(1)

References

408

(1)

Index

409

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