Dress and Ideology Fashioning Identity from Antiquity to the Present

Dress and fashion are powerful visual means of communicating ideology, whether political, social or religious. From the communist values of equality, simplicity and solidarity exemplified in the Mao suit to the myriad of fashion protests of feminists such as French revolutionary women's demand to wear trousers, dress can symbolize ideological orthodoxy as well as revolt.

With contributions from a wide range of international scholars, this book presents the first scholarly analysis of dress and ideology through accessible case studies. Chapters are organized thematically and explore dress in relation to topics including nation, identity, religion, politics and utopias, across an impressive chronological reach from antiquity to the present day.

Dress & Ideology will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, history, sociology, cultural studies, politics and gender studies.

Shoshana-Rose Marzel is Lecturer of Historical and theoretical aspects of fashion at Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel.

Dr. Guy Stiebel is an archaeologist. He is lecturer at the Institute of Archaeology at the Hebrew University of Jerusalem and in the History and Theory department, Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel.

Introduction
Fashion and Ideology through the Ages, Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel and Guy Stiebel, the Hebrew University and Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel

Nationality
Undressing the Nation: The Development of Secular Clothing Fashions in Israel, Oz Almog, University of Haifa, Israel
The 18th-century Caricature and Ideology: From Nation 'Type' to National 'Claim', Peter McNeil, University of Technology Sydney, Australia
Chinese Clothing, Barbarian Dress: Ideologies of Difference in Chinese Frontier Paintings, Antonia Finnane, University of Melbourne, Australia

Religion
How Should a Rabbi be Dressed? Rabbinical Attire in Italy from Renaissance to Emancipation (16th-19th Centuries), Asher Salah, Bezalel Arts and Design Academy Jerusalem, Israel
How Muslim Women Dress in Israel, Oz Almog, University of Haifa, Israel
Zoomorphic Brooches: Decoration or Ideology? Lindsay Allason-Jones, Newcastle University, UK

Identity
Changing Ideologies in Japanese Fashion from Rei Kawakubo to Murakami Takashi, Ory Bartal, Bezalel Arts and Design Academy Jerusalem, Israel
Dressed to Kill in Roman Palestine: Military Dress as an Ideological Marker, Guy Stiebel, the Hebrew University and Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel

Politics
Fashion and Feminism through Western History, Henriette Dahan-Kalev, Ben Gurion University, Israel and Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel
Cotton as Fashion Catalyst: The Politics of Indian Cottons in Tokugawa Japan and Early Modern Europe, Beverly Lemire, University of Alberta, Canada
Lethal Design in the Third Reich, Dana Arieli-Horowitz, Holon Institute of Technology, Israel

Utopias
Dress in English Utopias, Aileen Ribeiro, The Courtauld Institute of Art, UK
Dressing Utopias: Rabelais and Voltaire, Shoshana-Rose Marzel, Bezalel Academy of Arts and Design Jerusalem, Israel

Conclusion
Bibliography
Index