Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in

Fusing aesthetic and economic perspectives in exploring the lives and work of women in the Lucknow, India embroidery industry, this book offers insights into anthropology of work and women's studies. Richly descriptive and accessibly written, this book explores many important issues in women's studies, anthropology, and urban development today -- the impact of purdah (seclusion of women) upon women's work and occupational opportunities, the key role of subcontractors in home-based industry, the need to understand a handicraft from its makers' point of view, and the role of development agencies and programs.

Clare M. Wilkinson-Weber is Adjunct Professor of Anthropology at Washington State University

List of Maps

vii

(2)

List of Figures

ix

(2)

List of Tables

xi

(2)

A Note on Translation

xiii

(2)

Acknowledgments

xv

(4)

Introduction

xix

Methodology

xxii

(2)

Apprenticeship and learning (about) chikan

xxiv

(2)

Summary of chapters

xxvi

Chapter 1 Chikan in Historical Context

1

(24)

The field setting

1

(3)

What is chikan ?

4

(1)

Stitches and "work"

5

(4)

Origins and history of chikan

9

(16)

Chapter 2 The Division of Labor

25

(34)

The production process

25

(2)

Knowledge and the division of labor

27

(1)

Productive specialties

28

(25)

Machine work

53

(4)

Conclusion

57

(2)

Chapter 3 Embroiderers in Social Perspective

59

(28)

Theorizing women's work

59

(2)

Problems with statistics

61

(3)

Embroidery and poverty

64

(3)

Leisure

67

(1)

Religion

68

(4)

Caste

72

(2)

Purdah

74

(7)

Embroidery and the life cycle

81

(6)

Chapter 4 Work and Wages

87

(36)

Embroidery wages

87

(9)

Work habits

96

(5)

Agents and embroiderers

101

(17)

Summary

118

(1)

Is chikan embroidery "free-time" work?

119

(4)

Chapter 5 Skill and Knowledge in Fine Chikan Embroidery

123

(34)

Distinguishing the work of a skilled embroiderer

123

(3)

Knowledge of chikan

126

(4)

Learning chikan

130

(2)

Shauq and pareshani

132

(4)

Processes of learning

136

(13)

The embroiderer's "design": Planning and execution

149

(5)

Working for the market: Concessions in skill

154

(3)

Chapter 6 Development Schemes and State Patronage

157

(40)

Government handicraft policy

157

(4)

Government promotion and patronage

161

(12)

Award schemes

173

(6)

Training schemes

179

(2)

Exhibitions

181

(1)

Government jobs for skilled embroiderers

182

(1)

SEWA Lucknow

183

(9)

Embroiderers, skilled embroiderers, the government, and SEWA Lucknow

192

(1)

Conclusion

193

(4)

Conclusion

197

(8)

Appendix

205

(6)

Notes

211

(6)

Glossary

217

(4)

Bibliography

221

(10)

Index

231

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Embroidering Lives: Women's Work and Skill in the Lucknow Embroidery Industry

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials