Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified

Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified, fourth edition, explains the language of cosmetic chemistry in a straightforward and easy-to-follow format. It provides students with a solid understanding of the chemical tools associated with hair services, such as hair colorants, permanent wave solutions, chemical hair relaxers and more. Written in a clear and concise manner, this text takes the guesswork out of product ingredients and contains comprehensive information on the latest products available. To help students perform accurate and consistent chemical services, resulting in quality salon services.

Preface

xi

About The Author

xiii

Acknowledgments

xiv

Science and Cosmetology

1

(7)

Chemistry in the Salon

2

(1)

What is Science?

2

(1)

What is Chemistry?

2

(1)

What is Technology?

3

(1)

The Scientific Method

3

(3)

What Science Is Not

6

(2)

The Structure of Life

8

(6)

The Miracle of Life

9

(1)

Cells

10

(3)

The Big Picture

13

(1)

Microbiology

14

(8)

Introduction

15

(1)

Classifications of Pathogenic Bacteria

15

(2)

Movement of Bacteria

17

(1)

Bacterial Growth and Reproduction

17

(1)

Viruses

17

(2)

Other Infectious Agents

19

(1)

Types of Infection

20

(1)

Immunity

21

(1)

The Structure of Skin

22

(20)

Tissue

23

(1)

Skin

23

(9)

Exocrine Glands

32

(4)

Endocrine Glands

36

(2)

Ultraviolet Radiation and Sunscreens

38

(4)

Understanding Skin Disease

42

(11)

Recognizing Skin Disease

43

(1)

Why Do Hairstylists Have Skin Problems?

43

(1)

Contact Dermatitis

43

(3)

Yuck! You've Got Dandruff

46

(4)

Gloves

50

(3)

The Growth and Structure of Hair

53

(18)

Why Do We Need Hair?

54

(1)

Structures of the Scalp

54

(6)

Structure of the Hair

60

(6)

Subfibers and Physical Properties of Hair

66

(1)

Side Bonds

67

(4)

The Properties of Hair

71

(18)

Growth Cycles

72

(1)

Hair Types

73

(1)

Normal Hair Loss and Growth Rate

73

(16)

General Chemistry

89

(11)

Introduction

90

(1)

Chemistry

90

(1)

Matter

90

(3)

Molecules

93

(1)

The States of Matter

93

(1)

Physical and Chemical Properties

94

(1)

Physical and Chemical Changes

95

(1)

Pure Substances, Chemical Compounds, and Mixtures

96

(2)

Solutions, Suspensions, and Emulsions

98

(2)

Advanced Chemistry

100

(9)

Introduction

101

(1)

Water and pH

101

(2)

The pH Scale

103

(1)

Acids and the Hydrogen Ion

104

(1)

Alkalis, Bases, and the Hydroxide Ion

105

(1)

Oxidation-Reduction (Redox) Reactions

106

(3)

Shampoos, Conditioners, and Styling Aids

109

(23)

Introduction

110

(1)

Water is Polar

110

(2)

Oils are Nonpolar

112

(1)

Surfactants

112

(1)

Shampoo

113

(1)

Shampoo Chemistry

113

(11)

Conditioner Chemistry

124

(6)

Conclusions

130

(2)

Color and Hair Lightening

132

(25)

Visible Light

133

(7)

Lightening the Hair

140

(15)

Personal Safety

155

(2)

Haircoloring

157

(19)

Introduction

158

(1)

Hair Color Theory

158

(1)

Types of Haircoloring Products

158

(4)

Formulation and Chemistry

162

(6)

Nonoxidation Permanent Colors

168

(2)

Hair Coloring Safety

170

(6)

Permanent Waving

176

(27)

Hair Structure

177

(1)

Chemical Bonds

178

(3)

Permanent Waving

181

(3)

The Chemistry of Permanent Waving

184

(5)

Types of Permanent Waves

189

(2)

Self-Heating Perms

191

(1)

Permanent Wave Processing

192

(4)

Neutralization

196

(3)

Wave Safety

199

(4)

Chemical Hair Relaxers and Soft Curl Permanents

203

(14)

Chemical Hair Relaxing

204

(1)

Hair Relaxing Chemistry

204

(9)

Hair Relaxing Safety

213

(4)

Salon Health and Safety

217

(14)

The Importance of Working Safely

218

(1)

The Rules of Working Safely

218

(9)

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity

227

(1)

Rules of Safety

228

(3)

Appendix A Safety Information

231

(2)

Appendix B Common Irritants and Allergens

233

(1)

Appendix C Patch Testing Directions

234

(1)

Appendix D Science, Lab Equipment, and Industry Resources

235

(3)

Appendix E Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDSs)

238

(33)

Appendix F Product Ingredients

271

(7)

Index and Glossary

278

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Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified

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Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials