Handbook of Renewable Materials for Coloration and Finishing
, by Yusuf, Mohd
- ISBN: 9781119407751 | 1119407753
- Cover: Hardcover
- Copyright: 7/31/2018
The purpose of this unique handbook is to provide reference material that includes basic principles and current developments in the field of natural coloration and finishing.
A sustainable world requires the utilization of renewable materials or resources that can be produced in huge quantities for a wide range of applications. To adopt the use of active materials for textile coloration and finishing, they should reach the technical demands of the modern world such as eco-preservation, economic and ecological requirements by which, equity and sustainability might be considered. Therefore, there is a need to discuss and understand the challenges and solutions of textile coloration and functional finishing methodologies.
The 20 chapters comprising the Handbook of Renewable Materials for Coloration and Finishing are divided into four segments: Substrates for Coloration and Finishing; Renewable Colorants and their Applications; Advanced Materials and Technologies for Coloration; and Finishing and Sustainability.
Part I contains three chapters that overview the systematic discussion on the suitability, physical, chemical and processing aspects of substrates for coloration and finishing. Part II includes nine chapters and covers in-depth arguments on renewable colorants and their various applications including a chapter on bio-colorant's application as photosensitizers for dye sensitized solar cells. Part III contains five chapters in which modern advancements and processing methods/technologies for coloration and functional finishing are presented comprehensively. Part IV contains two chapters that provide sustainable aspects of coloration and finishing.
Mohd Yusuf received his PhD from the Jamia Millia Islamia University, New Delhi, India in 2013. He is now an Assistant Professor at D/O Chemistry, YMD College, M. D. University, Nuh, Haryana, India. He has published more than 40 publications including research and review articles, as well as book chapters in edited volumes.
Preface xix
Part I: Substrates for Coloration and Finishing 1
1 An Introduction to Textile Fibers: An Overview 3
Mohd Shabbir and Faqeer Mohammad
1.1 Introduction 3
1.2 Classification 4
1.2.1 Natural Fibers 5
1.2.2 Synthetic Fibers 5
1.2.3 Semi-Synthetic Fibers 6
1.3 Conclusion 6
References 7
2 Effect of Processing and Type of Mechanical Loading on Performance of Bio-Fibers and Bio-Composites 9
Vijay Chaudhary and Pramendra Kumar Bajpai
2.1 Introduction 9
2.2 Extraction of Bio-Fibers 10
2.3 Mechanical Loading 12
2.4 Tensile Test 14
2.5 Flexural Test 15
2.6 Impact Test 15
2.7 Tribological Performance 16
2.8 Conclusion 16
References 17
3 Mechanical and Chemical Structure of Natural Protein Fibers: Wool and Silk 19
Mohd Yusuf
3.1 Introduction 19
3.2 Wool 20
3.2.1 Physical Properties 20
3.2.2 Chemical Properties 21
3.2.3 Morphology 22
3.2.4 Chemical Structure 24
3.3 Silk 31
3.3.1 Physical properties 31
3.3.2 Chemical Properties 33
3.3.3 Morphology 34
3.3.4 Chemical Structure 36
3.4 Conclusion 38
References 38
Part II: Renewable Colorants and their Applications: Revolutionary Approach 41
4 Animal Based Natural Dyes: A Short Review 43
Shahid Adeel, Sana Rafi, Muhammad Abdul Mustaan, Mahwish Salman and Abdul Ghaffar
4.1 Introduction of Natural Dyes 44
4.2 Sustainability of Natural Dyes 45
4.3 Classification of Natural Dyes 46
4.4 Animal Based Natural Dyes 47
4.4.1 Cochineal 47
4.4.1.1 Polish Cochineal 49
4.4.1.2 Armenian Cochineal 50
4.4.2 Kermes 50
4.4.3 Lac Insect 51
4.4.4 Sea Snails 53
4.4.4.1 Bolinusbrandaris 53
4.4.4.2 Hexaplex trunculus 54
4.4.4.3 Stramonita haemastoma 54
4.5 Extraction Methodology 56
4.6 Application of Animal Based Dyes 60
4.6.1 Textile 60
4.6.2 Dye Sensitized Solar Cells 62
4.6.3 Food 63
4.6.4 Pharmaceuticals 64
4.6.5 Nano-technological Image 64
4.7 Future Prospects 65
4.8 Conclusion 66
Acknowledgment 66
References 66
5 Natural Dyes and Pigments: Extraction and Applications 75
Rym Mansour
5.1 Introduction 75
5.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 77
5.2.1 Classification Based on Color 77
5.2.1.1 Red 77
5.2.1.2 Blue 77
5.2.1.3 Yellow 77
5.2.1.4 Green 78
5.2.1.5 Black and Brown 78
5.2.1.6 Orange 78
5.2.2 Classification Based on Chemical Constitution 78
5.2.2.1 Anthraquinone Dyes 78
5.2.2.2 Indigoid Dyes 79
5.2.2.3 Carotenoid Dyes 79
5.2.2.4 Flavonoid Dyes 79
5.2.2.5 Dihydropyran Dyes 79
5.2.3 Classification Based on Application 80
5.2.3.1 Mordant Dyes 80
5.2.3.2 Vat Dyes 80
5.2.3.3 Direct Dyes 80
5.2.3.4 Acid Dyes 81
5.2.3.5 Basic Dyes 81
5.2.3.6 Disperse Dyes 81
5.2.4 Classification Based on Origin 81
5.2.4.1 Plants 81
5.2.4.2 Minerals 82
5.2.4.3 Animals 82
5.3 Extraction of Natural Dyes 82
5.3.1 Extraction Methods 82
5.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 82
5.3.1.2 Acid and Alkali Extraction Process 83
5.3.1.3 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 84
5.3.1.4 Fermentation 84
5.3.1.5 Enzymatic Extraction 85
5.3.1.6 Solvent Extraction 85
5.3.1.7 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 86
5.4 Natural Dyes Application 86
5.4.1 Textile, Medicinal and Herbal Applications 86
5.4.1.1 Quinones 87
5.4.1.2 Anthraquinones 87
5.4.1.3 Naphthoquinones 88
5.4.1.4 Anthocyanins 89
5.4.1.5 Usnic Acid 89
5.4.1.6 Tannins 90
5.4.2 Natural Dyes in Food Coloration 90
5.4.3 UV-protective Finishing 92
5.4.4 Insect Repellent Finishing 93
5.4.5 Natural Dyes in Dye-sensitized Solar Cells 94
5.5 Other Applications of Natural Dyes 95
5.6 Conclusion and Future Outlook 96
References 97
6 Lichen Derived Natural Colorants: History, Extraction, and Applications 103
Luqman Jameel Rather,, Salman Jameel Rather, Showkat Ali Ganie and Khursheed Ahmad Bhat
6.1 Introduction 103
6.2 History 105
6.3 Lichen Dyes and Industrial Revolution 106
6.4 Extraction 107
6.5 Dye Stuffs from Lichens 107
6.5.1 Lichen Dyestuffs: Orchils and Litmus 110
6.6 Yellowish, Brownish and Reddish Colorants from Lichen 110
6.7 Ways of Dyeing with Lichens 111
6.8 Future Prospectus and Conclusion 111
Acknowledgement 112
References 112
7 Chlorophylls as Pigment: A Contemporary Approach 115
Shafat Ahmad Khan, Mohd Yusuf, Pooja Agarwal and Lalit Prasad
7.1 Introduction 116
7.2 Molecular Structure and Physico-chemical Characterization 117
7.3 Coloring Aspects 119
7.4 Characterization and Quality Control 120
7.5 Conclusion and Future Outlook 121
References 122
8 Contemporary Revolutions in Natural Dyes: Extraction and Dyeing Methodology 125
Fazal-ur-Rehman, Shahid Adeel, Sana Rafi, Noman Habib, Khalid Mahmood Zia, Mohammad Zuber and Nasim Akhtar
8.1 Introduction 126
8.2 Pros and Cons of Natural Dyes 127
8.3 Classification of Natural Dyes 129
8.3.1 Plant Based Natural Dyes 129
8.3.1.1 Pomegranate 129
8.3.1.2 Australian Pine 130
8.3.1.3 Bush Grape 130
8.3.1.4 Butterfly Pea 130
8.3.1.5 Mugavu 131
8.3.1.6 Jackfruit 132
8.3.1.7 Larkspur 134
8.3.1.8 Tee Oil Plant 135
8.3.1.9 Chaste Tree 136
8.3.1.10 Chinese Sumac 137
8.3.1.11 Limoniastrum Monopetalum 137
8.3.1.12 Yerba Mate 137
8.3.1.13 Camphor Tree 138
8.3.1.14 Basil 139
8.3.1.15 Fennel 139
8.3.1.16 Indian Paper Plant 140
8.3.1.17 Guava 140
8.3.1.18 Scarlet Sage 141
8.3.1.19 Sandalwood 142
8.3.1.20 Centaury 142
8.4 Extraction Methodology 144
8.4.1 Conventional Methods 145
8.4.2 Modern Methods 146
8.5 Exploration of New Plants Using Modern Tools to Maintain Sustainability 150
8.5.1 Harmal 150
8.5.2 Saffron 152
8.5.3 Madder 152
8.5.4 Safflower 153
8.5.5 Arjun 154
8.5.6 Chicken Gizzard 156
8.5.7 Red Calico 156
8.5.8 Golden Duranta 157
8.5.9 Marigold 157
8.5.10 Milk Weed 159
8.5.11 Neem 160
8.6 Conclusion 161
Acknowledgment 161
References 161
9 A Review on Phytochemistry, Pharmacological and Coloring Potential of Lawsonia inermis 169
Mohd Yusuf
9.1 Introduction 169
9.2 Phytochemistry 171
9.2.1 Phenolics 171
9.2.1.2 Naphthoquinones 171
9.2.1.3 Naphthalenes 172
9.2.1.4 Acetylenes 173
9.2.1.5 Alkyl Phenones 174
9.2.1.6 Xanthones 175
9.2.1.7 Coumarins 175
9.2.1.8 Tannins 176
9.2.1.9 Lignans 176
9.2.1.10 Others 176
9.2.2 Terpenoids 178
9.2.3 Steroids 178
9.2.4 Alkaloids 178
9.2.5 Miscellaneous Compounds 179
9.3 Pharmacological Potential 181
9.4 Coloring Potential 182
9.5 Conclusion and Future Outlook 184
References 184
10 Sustainable Application of Natural Dyes in Cosmetic Industry 189
Shahid Adeel, Shazia Abrar, Shumaila Kiran,,Tahir Farooq, Tahsin Gulzar and Mubeen Jamal
10.1 Introduction 190
10.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 191
10.2.1 Sources of Origin 191
10.2.1.1 Plant Origin 191
10.2.1.2 Animal Origin 195
10.2.1.3 Mineral Origin 195
10.2.1.4 Microbial Origin 195
10.3 Application of Natural Dyes in Cosmetics 196
10.3.1 Natural Lip Cosmetics 196
10.3.2 Natural Hair Dyes 197
10.4 Methods of Application as Hair Colorant 199
10.5 Natural Dyes as Hair Colorant 200
10.5.1 Henna (Lawsonia inermis Linn) 200
10.5.2 Indigo (Indigoferatinctoria) 202
10.5.3 Shoe Flower (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis L.) 203
10.5.4 Amla (EmblicaofficinalisLinn) 205
10.5.5 Beet (Beta Vulgaris) 206
10.6 Advantages/Merits 206
10.7 Disadvantages/Demerits 207
10.8 Conclusion 207
Acknowledgments 208
References 208
11 Application of Natural Dyes to Cotton and Jute Textiles: Science and Technology and Environmental Issues 213
Ashis Kumar Samanta
11.1 Introduction 214
11.2 Extraction of Color Solution from the Sources of Natural Dyes 216
11.3 Purification of Selected Natural Dyes 216
11.4 Testing and Characterization of Purified Natural Dyes Before its Application to Textiles 217
11.4.1 UV-VIS Spectral Analysis of Aqueous Extracted Solution of Natural Dyes 217
11.4.2 FTIR Spectral Analysis 217
11.4.3 Analysis of DSC-Thermo Grams 218
11.5 Mechanism of Complex Formation Amongst Dye-Mordant and Fiber for Fixation of Natural Dyes on Different Fibers 221
11.6 Technological Aspects of Natural Dyeing to Cotton and Jute: Effect of Different Mordants 226
11.6.2 Effect of Selective Single and Double Mordanting on Jute and Cotton Fabrics for Natural Dyeing 227
11.6.2 Effect of Dyeing Process Variables for Optimizing the Dyeing Conditions 245
11.7 Study of Dyeing Kinetics for Dyeing Jack fruit Wood on Cotton and Jute fabrics 254
11.7.2 Dye Affinity 255
11.7.3 Dyeing Absorption Isotherm 257
11.7.4 Heat (Enthalpy) of Dyeing 260
11.7.5 Entropy of Dyeing and Gibb’s Free Energy 261
11.8 Study of Compatibility of Binary and Ternary Mixture of Natural dyes to Obtain Compound Shade 262
11.9 Test of Compatibility for Selected Binary Mixture of Natural Dyes 263
11.9.2 Newer Proposed Method of Test of Compatibility (Method-II) 264
11.9 Some Recent Studies on Natural Dyes for Textiles 274
11.10 Conclusions 275
References 276
12 Bio-Colorants as Photosensitizers for Dye Sensitized Solar Cell (DSSC) 279
Pooja Agarwal, Mohd Yusuf, Shafat Ahmed Khan and Lalit Prasad
12.1 Introduction 279
12.2 Operational Principle of the DSSCs 281
12.3 DSSC Components 283
12.3.1 Semiconductor Film Electrode 283
12.3.2 Electrolyte 285
12.3.2.1 Liquid Electrolyte 285
12.3.2.2 Solid State Electrolytes 287
12.3.2.3 Quasi-Solid Electrolyte 287
12.3.3 Counter Electrode 288
12.3.4 Photosensitizers 289
12.3.4.1 Metal Complex Sensitizer 289
12.3.4.2 Metal-Free Organic Sensitizer 290
12.3.4.3 Natural Sensitizer/Natural Dye/Natural Pigments 291
12.4 Conclusion and Future Outlook 297
References 298
Part III: Advanced Materials and Technologies for Coloration and Finishing 301
13 Advanced Materials and Technologies for Antimicrobial Finishing of Cellulosic Textiles 303
Nabil A. Ibrahim, Basma M. Eid and Faten H. H. Abdellatif
13.1 Cellulosic Fibers 303
13.2 Wet Processing of Cellulosic Textiles 304
13.2.1 Pre-treatment 304
13.2.2 Coloration 306
13.2.3 Finishing 306
13.3 Antimicrobial Finishing of Cellulosic Textiles 307
13.3.1 Criteria for Proper Antimicrobial Agents 310
13.3.2 Best Available Techniques 310
13.4 Traditional Antimicrobial Finishing Chemicals, Application Method, Disadvantages 311
13.4.1 Synthetic Antimicrobial Agents 311
13.4.1.1 Quaternary Ammonium Compounds 311
13.4.1.2 Poly (hexamethylenebiguanide) (PHMB) 312
13.4.1.3 N-Halamine Compounds 313
13.4.1.4 Triclosan 314
13.4.2 Natural Antimicrobial Agents 314
13.4.2.1 Chitosan 315
13.5 Advanced Antimicrobial Agents 320
13.5.1 Antimicrobial Agent Based on Natural Products 320
13.5.2 Advanced Antimicrobial Agents Based on Nano-materials 327
13.5.2.1 Silver Nanoparticles AgNPs 329
13.5.2.2 Tianium Dioxide Nanoparticle (TiO2NPs) 333
13.5.2.3 Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) 335
13.5.2.4 Cuprousoxide Nanoparticle (Cu2ONPs) 335
13.5.3 Nan composites and Hybrid Materials 336
13.6 Evaluation of Antimicrobial Products 336
13.7 Conclusion and Future Prospects 336
Reference 345
14 Bio-macromolecules: A New Flame Retardant Finishing Strategy for Textiles 357
Giulio Malucelli
14.1 Introduction 357
14.2 The Role of Bio-macromolecules as Flame Retardant Systems: Structure-Property Relationships 363
14.2.1 Whey Proteins 364
14.2.2 Caseins 367
14.2.3 Hydrophobins 371
14.2.4 Nucleic Acids 374
14.2.5 Other Bio-macromolecules: A Quick Recent Overview 380
14.3 Current Limitations 381
14.4 Conclusions and Future Perspectives 382
Acknowledgements 382
Reference 383
15 Significant Trends in Nano Finishes for Improvement of Functional Properties of Fabrics 387
N. Gokarneshan and K. Velumani
15.1 Introduction 388
15.2 Significance of Nanotechnology 389
15.3 Application of Nanotechnology in Textiles 389
15.4 Nanotechnology for Improved Fabric Finishing 392
15.5 Problem Associated with Nanotechnology 393
15.6 Nano Safe Textile Finishes with Papaya Peel and Silver 393
15.6.1 Overview 393
15.6.2 Related Aspects 393
15.6.3 Analysis of UV Visible Spectra 394
15.6.4 Dynamic Light Scattering 395
15.6.5 Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity of Textile Material 396
15.7 Plasma Induced Finishes for Multifunctional Properties 397
15.7.1 Overview 397
15.7.2 Related Aspects 397
15.7.3 Ultra Violet Protection 398
15.7.4 Flame Retardant Properties 399
15.7.5 Thermo-Gravimetric Analysis 400
15.7.6 Morphology of Surface 401
15.7.7 Antibacterial Properties 401
15.7.8 Crease Recovery Angle 401
15.7.9 Surface Chemical Changes 402
15.7.10 Tensile Properties 403
15.8 Nano Finishes Adopting Green Approach 403
15.8.1 Overview 403
15.8.2 Related Aspects 403
15.8.3 Release of Silver Nano Particle 405
15.8.4 Anti-Microbial Activity 405
15.9 Multi Functional Nano Finish on Denim Fabrics 406
15.9.1 Overview 406
15.9.2 Related Aspects 407
15.9.3 Characterization of Nanoparticles 408
15.9.4 Characterization of Treated Fabric 408
15.10 Role of Silk Sericin in Nano Finishing with Silver Particles 410
15.10.1 Overview 410
15.10.2 Related Aspects 411
15.10.3 Characterization of Silver Nanoparticles 411
15.10.4 Importance of Sericin asCapping Agent 412
15.10.5 Application of Silver Nano Particles as Antibacterial Agent 413
15.11 Improvement in Coloration and Antimicrobial Properties in Silk Fabrics with Aqueous Binders 413
15.11.1 Overview 413
15.11.2 Related Aspects 414
15.11.3 Analysis of Polyurethane Acrylate 414
15.11.4 Influence of PUA Concentration on K/S Value 415
15.11.5 Influence of Titanium Dioxide Concentration on K/S Value 415
15.11.6 UV Protection 415
15.11.7 Antimicrobial Property 416
15.11.8 Wrinkle Resistance 417
15.11.9 Fiber Surface 417
15.11.10 Fastness Properties 417
15.12 Nanoparticles for Improving Flame Retardant Properties of Fabrics 418
15.13 Application of Herbal Synthesized Silver Nano Particles on Cotton Fabric 420
15.14 Conclusion 422
References 423
16 Rot Resistance and Antimicrobial Finish of Cotton Khadi Fabrics 435
Tapas Ranjan Kar
16.1 Introduction 436
16.2 Anti Microbial Treatment 439
16.3 Some Important Study on Eco-friendly Antimicrobial Finishing of Cotton Khadi Fabric 440
16.3.2 Reaction Scheme 445
16.3.3 Crease Recovery and Stiffness 453
16.3.4 Appearance Properties 455
16.4 Effect of Varying Concentration Level of Chitosan and PEG for Application of Mixture of Chitosan and PEG on Microbial and Other Properties of Cotton Khadi Fabric with CA and SHP as Mixed Catalyst and Their Optimization 455
16.5 Characterization of Control and Treated Cotton Fabrics by FTIR, TGA, and X-RD Analysis 460
16.5.1 Analysis of FTIR Spectra for Untreated and Treated Cotton Khadi Fabric with PEG and its Mixture 460
16.5.2 Characterization of Thermal Stability of the Control and Treated Fabric 463
16.5.3 X-ray Diffraction of Untreated and Treated Fabrics with CA and SHP as Catalyst 465
16.6 Study of Residual Antimicrobial Effect after Repeated Washing Cycles 466
16.7 Analysis of Surface Properties by SEM 467
16.8 Conclusion 467
16.8.1 Ranking Index of Different Treatments on Loss of Tenacity and Antimicrobial Reduction Percentage Values 468
Acknowledgement 469
Reference 469
17 Advanced Technologies for Coloration and Finishing Using Nanotechnology 473
Abdul Azeez Nazeer, Saravanan Dhandapani and Sudarshana Deepa Vijaykumar
17.1 Introduction 474
17.2 Nanoparticles in Dyes 474
17.2.1 Plasma Technology 475
17.2.1.1 Coloration of Plasma-Treated Polyester Fibers 476
17.2.1.2 Coloration of Plasma-Treated Wool Fibers 476
17.2.1.3 Coloration of Plasma-Treated Cotton Fibers 476
17.3 Nano Finishing 477
17.3.1 Hydrophobic Finishing 477
17.3.2 Antimicrobial Finishing 480
17.3.3 Self Cleaning Finishing 482
17.3.4 Flame Retardent 485
17.3.5 UV Protecting Finishing 487
17.3.6 Wrinkle Resistant 488
17.4 Encapsulation Technology 489
17.4.1 Application of Microcapsules on Textile Industry 495
17.5 Conclusion 497
References 497
18 Sol–Gel Flame Retardant and/or Antimicrobial Finishings for Cellulosic Textiles 501
Giulio Malucelli
18.1 Introduction 502
18.2 The Sol–Gel Process 504
18.2.1 Sol–gel Fully Inorganic Coatings 506
18.2.2 Phosphorus-Doped Sol–Gel Coatings 509
18.2.3 Smoke Suppressant Sol–Gel Coating Formulations 510
18.2.4 Hybrid Organic–Inorganic Sol–Gel Coatings 511
18.2.5 Antibacterial Effects Provided by Sol–Gel Coatings 513
18.3 Current Limitations 515
18.4 Conclusions and Future Outlook 515
References 516
Part IV: Sustainability 521
19 Sustainable Coloration and Value Addition to Textiles 523
S. Basak, Kartick K. Samanta, S. K. Chattopadhyay and P. Pandit
19.1 Introduction 524
19.2 Sustainable Coloration of Textile Materials 525
19.2.2 Naturally Colored Cotton 526
18.2.3 Natural Dye from Plants 527
19.2.4 Sustainable Synthetic Color 530
19.2.5 Easy Care Finishing of Textile Products 531
19.3 Antimicrobial Finishing of Textiles 532
19.4 Flame Retardant Finishing of Textile 535
19.5 UV Protective Textile 537
19.6 Mosquito, Insect and Moth Repellent Finishing of Textile 538
19.7 Irradiation-Induced Value Addition to Textiles 539
19.8 Enzyme-Based Textile Pretreatment 540
19.9 Bio-mimic Based Value Addition to Textile 541
19.10 Conclusion and Future Outlook 543
References 543
20 Interconnection Between Biotechnology and Textile: A New Horizon of Sustainable Technology 549
Aranya Mallick
20.1 Introduction 549
20.2 Influence of Bioprocess on Textile 550
20.2.1 Fibers and Polymers 551
20.2.1.1 Modified Cotton 551
20.2.1.2 Biopolymers 552
20.2.1.3 Thermoplastic Polymers Derived from Natural Sources 555
20.2.2 Pretreatment 557
20.2.2.1 Desizing 558
20.2.2.2 Scouring 559
20.2.2.3 Bleaching 559
20.2.2.4 Peroxide Killing 559
20.2.3 Dyes and Dyeing 560
20.2.3.1 Natural Dyes and Dyeing 560
20.2.3.2 Bacteria Derived Pigments 561
20.2.4 After or Post-treatment 561
20.2.5 Decolorization of Textile Dyes Waste 562
20.2.6 Biosurfactants 563
20.2.7 Antimicrobial Activities and the Tests 563
20.2.8 Textile Detergent 565
20.3 Influence of Textile on Biotechnology 565
20.3.1 Filtration 565
20.3.2 Immobilization 565
20.3.3 Protective Textile 567
20.3.3.1 Air Permeable Material 567
20.3.3.2 Semipermeable Material 567
20.3.3.3 Impermeable Material 567
20.3.3.4 Selective Permeable Membrane 568
20.4 Conclusion 568
References 568
Index 000
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