Modern Fashion Traditions Negotiating Tradition and Modernity through Fashion

Modern Fashion Traditions questions the dynamics of fashion systems and spaces of consumption outside the West. Too often, these fashion systems are studied as a mere and recent result of globalization and Western fashion influences, but this book draws on a wide range of non-Western case studies and analyses their similarities and differences as legitimate fashion systems, contesting Eurocentric notions of tradition and modernity, continuity versus change, and 'the West versus the Rest'.

Preconceptions about non-Western fashion are challenged through diverse case studies from international scholars, including street-style identity in Bhutan, the influence of Ottoman cultural heritage on contemporary Turkish fashion design and an investigation into the origins of the word 'fashion' in Chinese. Negotiating tradition, foreign influences and the contemporary global dominance of Western fashion cities, Modern Fashion Traditions will give readers a clearer understanding of non-Western fashion identities in the present.

Accessibly written, this ground-breaking text makes an important contribution to the study of non-Western fashion and will be an important resource for students of fashion history and theory, anthropology and cultural studies.

M. Angela Jansen is a post-doctoral researcher at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London, UK. Her publications include Moroccan Fashion: Design, Tradition and Modernity (Bloomsbury, 2014).

Jennifer Craik is research professor in the School of Fashion at Queensland University of Technology, Australia. Her publications include Uniforms Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression (Berg, 2005) and Fashion: The Key Concepts (Berg, 2009).

1. Introduction
M. Angela Jansen, London College of Fashion, UK, and Jennifer Craik, RMIT University, Australia

PART I: FASHION HISTORY REVISED

2. Sartorial Modernity in Japan
Toby Slade, University of Tokyo, Japan

3. The Origin of the Word 'Fashion' in Chinese: Imported or Created?
Christine Tsui, University of Hong Kong, China

PART II: THE COMMODIFICATION OF CULTURAL HERITAGE

4. Being Fashionable in the Globalisation Era in India: Holy Writing on Clothes
Janaki Turaga, Independent Researcher, India

5. Australian Indigenous Inspirations in Contemporary Fashion
Jennifer Craik, RMIT University, Australia

PART III: SELF-ORIENTALISM OR NATION BRANDING?

6. The Branding of Cultural Heritage in Contemporary Moroccan Fashion
M. Angela Jansen, London College of Fashion, UK

7. Ottoman Costume in Modern Turkish Fashion Design Context
S¸akir Özüdog?ru, Anadolu University, Turkey

PART IV: LOCAL CONSTRUCTS OF THE GLOBAL

8. History, Art, and Plastic Bags: Viewing South Africa Through Fashion
Victoria L. Rovine, University of Florida, USA

9. Constructing Fashionable Dress and Identity in Bhutan
Emma Dick, Middlesex University, UK

PART V: CONCLUSION

10. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory
Sandra Niessen, Independent Anthropologist, The Netherlands

Bibliography
Index

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