The Philosophy of Curry

There are curries on almost every continent, with a stunning diversity of flavors and textures across India alone, and many more interpretations the world over, including in Indonesia, Malaysia, Japan, Trinidad and the UK. But curry is difficult to define. The word has origins in ancient India, but its adoption by Portuguese and British colonizers saw curry reinterpreted in the west to encompass an entire cuisine, prompting many Indians to reject the term outright.

Sejal Sukhadwala probes the complex intersection of tradition and colonialism through the fascinating history of curry, from its association with Ayurveda – one of the world's oldest holistic healing systems to its enduring popularity in contemporary British culture. Garnishing this history is a surfeit of helpful advice on which oils to use, how to temper spices and where to find those all-important mouth-watering recipes.

Sejal Sukhadwala is a food writer who lives in London. She is frequently asked to write about Indian food and restaurants; over 20 years, she has written for a wide range of publications in the UK, US and India including the Guardian, The Times and BBC Food.

Introduction 1
What Is Curry? 7
Earliest Indian Curries 11
Indian Food: From Prehistoric Times to
the Colonial Era 17
Anglo-Indian and British Curries 31
Curry Powder 51
How Curry Came to Britain 55
Popular Indian Restaurant Curries 71
Korma 71
Tikka Masala 72
Vindaloo 73
Madras 74
Jalfrezi 75
Dopiaza 76
Rogan Josh 77
Dhansak 77
Pasanda 78
Phall 78
Curries Around the World 81
Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore 82
Thailand 86
Japan 87
Mauritius 90
South Africa 90
Trinidad and Tobago, Guyana, Jamaica 92
America 93
Last Words 97
Notes 101
Further Reading 103
List of Illustrations 105