The Physics of Surfing

While many of us have marveled at the artistry of skilled surfers on big waves, few people understand the science behind how waves are formed and how a surfer can harness the raw power and energy of an ocean wave. With Physics of Surfing we present the physical science behind wave formation, hydrodynamic forces, surfboard design, athleticism and the cultural significance of surfing.This teacher's resource guide was developed to assist in meeting educational goals while at the same time expanding student understanding and appreciation of the ocean's energy, physiology, geography, ecology and conservation.Although this book was originally designed to accompany the film The Physics of Surfing, all of the program activities are designed to stand on their own.