Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach
, by Pandit, Pintu; Ahmed, Shakeel; Singha, Kunal; Shrivastava, Sanjay
- ISBN: 9781119620495 | 111962049X
- Cover: Hardcover
- Copyright: 7/15/2020
The alarming level of greenhouse gases in the environment, fast depleting natural resources and the increasing level of industrial effluents, have made every single manufacturing activity come under the scrutiny of sustainability. When all kinds of waste such as clothes, furniture, carpets, televisions, shoes, paper, food wastes etc. end up in the landfill, only a few of them are naturally decomposed and thus a large majority remains as non-biodegradable. It is for this reason, efforts are concentrated to reduce the burden on earth by this waste, and as far as used textile products are concerned, there are now attempts to recycle or up-cycle. This book addresses the role of sustainability by using textile waste in fashion and textiles with respect to manufacturing, materials, as well as the economic and business challenges and opportunities it poses.
This wide-ranging book comprises 19 chapters on the various topics including:
· Solutions for sustainable fashion and textile industry
· Agro and bio waste in the fashion industry
· Innovating fashion brands by using textile waste
· Waste in handloom textiles
· Business paradigm shifting: 21st century fashion from recycling and upcycling
· Utilization of natural waste for sustainable textile coloration
· Circular economy in fashion and textile from waste
· Future pathways of waste utilization for fashion
· Sustainable encapsulation of natural dyes from Plant waste for textiles
· Agro-waste applications for bio-remediation of textile effluent
Pintu Pandit is an Assistant Professor in Textile Design Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology under Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India, Patna campus. He received his PhD degree in Fibers and Textile Processing Technology from the Institute of Chemical Technology, Mumbai, India.
Shakeel Ahmed is an Assistant Professor in Chemistry at the Higher Education Department, Government of Jammu and Kashmir, India. He obtained his PhD in the area of biopolymers and bionanocomposites from Jamia Millia Islamia in the year 2016 and has published several research publications in the area of green nanomaterials and biopolymers for various applications including biomedical, packaging, sensors, and water treatment.
Kunal Singha is an Assistant Professor in Department of Textile Design at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Patna, India. He received his education at WBUT, IIT Delhi and IIT Kharagpur, India and his primary research work is in sustainable textiles, quality, supply and manufacturing chain.
Sanjay Shrivastava has 23 years of progressive responsibility and operational leadership experience in India's top academic organization imparting education in Fashion Design, Management and Technology. He is the Director of NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology), Patna, India.
Preface xxi
1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1
Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava and Shakeel Ahmed
1.1 Introduction 2
1.2 Importance of Recycling 3
1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing and Benefits of Recycling 4
1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6
1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6
1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7
1.7 The Circular Economy 9
1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9
1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10
1.8.1.1 Cotton 10
1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10
1.8.1.3 Wool 11
1.8.1.4 Silk 11
1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12
1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion Industry 13
1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social Obligation 13
1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14
1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15
1.14 Conclusions 16
References 17
2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19
Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity and Amal Ray
2.1 Introduction 20
2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21
2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24
2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29
2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29
2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29
2.4.2 Process Related 30
2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30
2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30
2.5 Conclusions 31
References 31
3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33
Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra
3.1 Introduction 34
3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35
3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36
3.2.2 Reuse 36
3.2.3 Restyling 39
3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41
3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41
3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44
3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44
3.3.2 Household Rags 45
3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45
3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46
3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46
3.4.2 Government Regulations 47
3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47
3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production and Processing of Textile Fibers 48
3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability in Textile Industry 49
3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53
3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care, and Recycling 53
3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing Recycling Practices 56
3.7 Textile Waste 57
3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals, and Water 58
3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58
3.8.2 Geotextiles 58
3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse in a Textile Industry 58
3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60
3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62
3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62
3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62
3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62
3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62
3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63
3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63
3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63
3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards, Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64
3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64
3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64
3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64
3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65
3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66
3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66
3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66
3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66
3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69
3.12 Conclusion 69
References 70
4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73
Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit
4.1 Introduction 74
4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75
4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75
4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76
4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78
4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78
4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79
4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79
4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80
4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81
4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles From Crop Waste 81
4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82
4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82
4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83
4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83
4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84
4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco-Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84
4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85
4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/Biowastes 86
4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87
4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88
4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89
4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents: Few Case Studies 90
4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed Fashion Garments 93
4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural Dyed Apparels 94
4.5 Conclusion 94
References 95
5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile Waste for Better Fashion 101
Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas
5.1 Introduction 102
5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103
5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile and Apparel Industries 105
5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105
5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107
5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using Textile Waste 109
5.4.1 Anokhi 110
5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110
5.4.3 Everlane 112
5.4.4 Doodlage 112
5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113
5.4.6 Osklen 114
5.4.7 Raeburn 115
5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115
5.4.9 Bottletop 115
5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116
5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116
5.4.12 Raw Mango 116
5.4.13 Patagonia 116
5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117
5.5 Conclusion 117
References 118
6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123
Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik, Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar
6.1 Introduction 124
6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126
6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized Textile Sectors 127
6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127
6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129
6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129
6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131
6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131
6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132
6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133
6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133
6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136
6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138
6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using Natural Resources 139
6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139
6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric Using Natural Resources 144
6.10 Conclusions 147
Acknowledgments 147
References 147
7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151
Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar, Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj
7.1 Introduction 152
7.2 Importance of Recycling 152
7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153
7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154
7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154
7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable Materials 155
7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156
7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158
7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159
7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160
7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161
7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164
7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166
7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166
7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167
7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167
7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169
7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170
7.13 Conclusions 174
Acknowledgments 174
References 175
8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177
Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal, Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha
8.1 Introduction 177
8.2 Sustainability 178
8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179
8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar of Sustainability 179
8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179
8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion Industry 180
8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182
8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182
8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182
8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182
8.5.2.1 Recycle 183
8.5.2.2 Reuse 184
8.5.2.3 Reduce 184
8.5.3 Upcycling 185
8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185
8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186
8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187
8.6 Advance Technologies 188
8.6.1 Foam Technology 188
8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188
8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189
8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189
8.7 Eco-Labeling 189
8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190
8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190
8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190
8.10.1 Cartina 191
8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191
8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191
8.10.4 Piñatex 192
8.10.5 Polylana 192
8.10.6 Seacell 193
8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193
8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under the Fashion Industry 193
8.12 Conclusions 194
References 195
9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199
Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity, Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar
9.1 Introduction 199
9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200
9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200
9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202
9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203
9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203
9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing Strategies 204
9.4 Conclusions 210
References 211
10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration— Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215
Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit
10.1 Introduction 216
10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218
10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218
10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219
10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220
10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes and Natural Mordants 222
10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225
10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226
10.6 Conclusion 230
References 231
11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235
Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray
11.1 Introduction 236
11.2 Linear Economy 236
11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238
11.4 Circular Economy 238
11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241
11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile and Fashion Industry 242
11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244
11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245
11.5.4 Opportunities 247
11.6 Conclusion 248
References 249
12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile and Fashion 253
Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey
12.1 Introduction 253
12.2 Marketing Mix 255
12.2.1 Product 256
12.2.2 Price 257
12.2.3 Place 258
12.2.4 Promotion 258
12.3 Market Analysis 259
12.3.1 Industry Overview 260
12.3.2 Target Market 260
12.3.3 Competition 261
12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261
12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile and Fashion 263
12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266
12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266
12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266
12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267
12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268
12.6 Conclusions 273
References 274
13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion and Apparels Marketplace 277
M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha
13.1 Introduction 278
13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278
13.3 Materials and Methods 280
13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280
13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280
13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280
13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280
13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280
13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281
13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281
13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281
13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural Resources 289
13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290
13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel Consumable Products 291
13.7 Conclusions 295
References 296
14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299
Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity
14.1 Introduction 299
14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300
14.2.1 Cotton 303
14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303
14.2.3 New Fibers 304
14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306
14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308
14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308
14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310
14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310
14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310
14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310
14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311
14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311
14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312
14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312
14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313
14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313
14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313
14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314
14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315
14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316
14.4.2 Space Suit 316
14.4.3 End of Life 316
14.5 Conclusions 317
References 318
15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards Best Solution 321
Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha
15.1 Introduction 322
15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323
15.2.1 Prevention 323
15.2.2 Minimization 324
15.2.3 Reuse 324
15.2.4 Recycling 324
15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324
15.2.6 Disposal 325
15.3 Textile Materials 325
15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326
15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326
15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327
15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328
15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329
15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling Textile Waste 330
15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330
15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331
15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333
15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336
15.6 Challenges 337
15.7 Conclusions 337
References 338
16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341
Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey, Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath
16.1 Introduction 342
16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343
16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches and Compensations 345
16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346
16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347
16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348
16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349
16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350
16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350
16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351
16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352
16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353
16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353
16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355
16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355
16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356
16.15 Conclusion 356
Acknowledgement 357
References 357
17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes for Textiles 363
Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman, Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan
17.1 Introduction 364
17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364
17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364
17.3.1 Alizarin 364
17.3.2 Berberine 365
17.3.3 Bixin 366
17.3.4 Brazilein 368
17.3.5 Carotenoids 368
17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369
17.3.7 Carotene 370
17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371
17.3.9 Curcumin 371
17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372
17.3.11 Indigoids 373
17.3.12 Indigo 373
17.3.13 Juglone 374
17.3.14 Lawsone 374
17.3.15 Lycopene 375
17.3.16 Morin 375
17.3.17 Quercetin 376
17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376
17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377
17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377
17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377
17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377
17.6 Biomordanting 377
17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378
17.7.1 Conventional Method 378
17.7.2 Modern Methods 379
17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379
17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380
17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381
17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381
17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381
17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381
17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382
17.8.3 Neem 383
17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384
17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384
17.8.6 Process Optimization 385
17.9 Conclusion 385
References 385
18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation of Textile Effluents 391
Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf, Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz
18.1 Introduction 392
18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392
18.2.1 Physical Methods 393
18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393
18.2.3 Biological Methods 393
18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393
18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394
18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394
18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395
18.4.1 Straws 396
18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw in Wastewater Treatment 396
18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398
18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves in Treatment of Wastewater 398
18.4.3 Stems 401
18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water Remediation 401
18.4.4 Barks 403
18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment Methods of Textile Wastewater 404
18.4.5 Nut Shells 404
18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater Remediation 407
18.4.6 Peels 407
18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408
18.4.7 Bagasse 409
18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment Methods 410
18.4.8 Husks 411
18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater Treatment 411
18.5 Conclusion 412
References 412
19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation and Applications 423
Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor, Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin
19.1 Introduction 424
19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424
19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424
19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424
19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425
19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425
19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426
19.3.1 Conventional Method 426
19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426
19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426
19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426
19.3.2 Modern Method 427
19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427
19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427
19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427
19.4 Mordanting 427
19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428
19.4.2 Biomordanting 428
19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428
19.5.1 Marigold 429
19.5.2 Pomegranate 431
19.5.3 Safflower 432
19.5.4 Acacia 434
19.5.5 Neem 436
19.5.6 Arjun 438
19.5.7 Saffron 439
19.5.8 Hermal 441
19.5.9 Turmeric 442
19.5.10 Annatto 443
19.5.11 Madder 445
19.5.12 Ratanjot 446
19.6 Conclusion 448
References 448
Index 457vii Contents Preface xxi 1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1 Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava and Shakeel Ahmed 1.1 Introduction 2 1.2 Importance of Recycling 3 1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing and Benefits of Recycling 4 1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6 1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6 1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7 1.7 The Circular Economy 9 1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9 1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10 1.8.1.1 Cotton 10 1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10 1.8.1.3 Wool 11 1.8.1.4 Silk 11 1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12 1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion Industry 13 1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social Obligation 13 1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14 1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15 1.14 Conclusions 16 References 17 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL viii Contents 2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19 Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity and Amal Ray 2.1 Introduction 20 2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21 2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24 2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29 2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29 2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29 2.4.2 Process Related 30 2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30 2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30 2.5 Conclusions 31 References 31 3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33 Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra 3.1 Introduction 34 3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35 3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36 3.2.2 Reuse 36 3.2.3 Restyling 39 3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41 3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41 3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44 3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44 3.3.2 Household Rags 45 3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45 3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46 3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46 3.4.2 Government Regulations 47 3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47 3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production and Processing of Textile Fibers 48 3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability in Textile Industry 49 3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53 3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care, and Recycling 53 3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing Recycling Practices 56 Contents ix 3.7 Textile Waste 57 3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals, and Water 58 3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58 3.8.2 Geotextiles 58 3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse in a Textile Industry 58 3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60 3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62 3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62 3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62 3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62 3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62 3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63 3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63 3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63 3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards, Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64 3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64 3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64 3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64 3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65 3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66 3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66 3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66 3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66 3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69 3.12 Conclusion 69 References 70 4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73 Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit 4.1 Introduction 74 4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75 4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75 4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76 4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78 4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78 4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79 4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79 x Contents 4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80 4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81 4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles From Crop Waste 81 4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82 4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82 4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83 4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83 4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84 4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco- Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84 4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85 4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/ Biowastes 86 4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87 4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88 4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89 4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents: Few Case Studies 90 4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed Fashion Garments 93 4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural Dyed Apparels 94 4.5 Conclusion 94 References 95 5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile Waste for Better Fashion 101 Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas 5.1 Introduction 102 5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103 5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile and Apparel Industries 105 5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105 5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107 5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using Textile Waste 109 5.4.1 Anokhi 110 5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110 5.4.3 Everlane 112 Contents xi 5.4.4 Doodlage 112 5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113 5.4.6 Osklen 114 5.4.7 Raeburn 115 5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115 5.4.9 Bottletop 115 5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116 5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116 5.4.12 Raw Mango 116 5.4.13 Patagonia 116 5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117 5.5 Conclusion 117 References 118 6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123 Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik, Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar 6.1 Introduction 124 6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126 6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized Textile Sectors 127 6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127 6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129 6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129 6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131 6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131 6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132 6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133 6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133 6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136 6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138 6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using Natural Resources 139 6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139 6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric Using Natural Resources 144 6.10 Conclusions 147 Acknowledgments 147 References 147 xii Contents 7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151 Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar, Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj 7.1 Introduction 152 7.2 Importance of Recycling 152 7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153 7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154 7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154 7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable Materials 155 7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156 7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158 7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159 7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160 7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161 7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164 7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166 7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166 7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167 7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167 7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169 7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170 7.13 Conclusions 174 Acknowledgments 174 References 175 8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177 Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal, Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha 8.1 Introduction 177 8.2 Sustainability 178 8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion Industry 180 8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182 8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182 8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182 Contents xiii 8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182 8.5.2.1 Recycle 183 8.5.2.2 Reuse 184 8.5.2.3 Reduce 184 8.5.3 Upcycling 185 8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185 8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186 8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187 8.6 Advance Technologies 188 8.6.1 Foam Technology 188 8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188 8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189 8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189 8.7 Eco-Labeling 189 8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190 8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190 8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190 8.10.1 Cartina 191 8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191 8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191 8.10.4 Piñatex 192 8.10.5 Polylana 192 8.10.6 Seacell 193 8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193 8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under the Fashion Industry 193 8.12 Conclusions 194 References 195 9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199 Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity, Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar 9.1 Introduction 199 9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200 9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200 9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202 9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203 9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203 9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing Strategies 204 9.4 Conclusions 210 References 211 xiv Contents 10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration— Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215 Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit 10.1 Introduction 216 10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218 10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218 10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219 10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220 10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes and Natural Mordants 222 10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225 10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226 10.6 Conclusion 230 References 231 11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235 Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray 11.1 Introduction 236 11.2 Linear Economy 236 11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238 11.4 Circular Economy 238 11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241 11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile and Fashion Industry 242 11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244 11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245 11.5.4 Opportunities 247 11.6 Conclusion 248 References 249 12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile and Fashion 253 Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey 12.1 Introduction 253 12.2 Marketing Mix 255 12.2.1 Product 256 12.2.2 Price 257 12.2.3 Place 258 12.2.4 Promotion 258 12.3 Market Analysis 259 12.3.1 Industry Overview 260 Contents xv 12.3.2 Target Market 260 12.3.3 Competition 261 12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261 12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile and Fashion 263 12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266 12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266 12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266 12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267 12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268 12.6 Conclusions 273 References 274 13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion and Apparels Marketplace 277 M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha 13.1 Introduction 278 13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278 13.3 Materials and Methods 280 13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280 13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280 13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280 13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280 13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280 13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281 13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281 13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281 13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural Resources 289 13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290 13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel Consumable Products 291 13.7 Conclusions 295 References 296 14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299 Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity 14.1 Introduction 299 14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300 14.2.1 Cotton 303 xvi Contents 14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303 14.2.3 New Fibers 304 14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306 14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308 14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308 14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310 14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310 14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310 14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310 14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311 14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311 14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312 14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312 14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313 14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313 14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313 14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314 14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315 14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316 14.4.2 Space Suit 316 14.4.3 End of Life 316 14.5 Conclusions 317 References 318 15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards Best Solution 321 Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha 15.1 Introduction 322 15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323 15.2.1 Prevention 323 15.2.2 Minimization 324 15.2.3 Reuse 324 15.2.4 Recycling 324 15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324 15.2.6 Disposal 325 15.3 Textile Materials 325 15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326 15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326 15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327 15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328 Contents xvii 15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329 15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling Textile Waste 330 15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330 15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331 15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333 15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336 15.6 Challenges 337 15.7 Conclusions 337 References 338 16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341 Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey, Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath 16.1 Introduction 342 16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343 16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches and Compensations 345 16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346 16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347 16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348 16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349 16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350 16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350 16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351 16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352 16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353 16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353 16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355 16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355 16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356 16.15 Conclusion 356 Acknowledgement 357 References 357 17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes for Textiles 363 Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman, Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan 17.1 Introduction 364 17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364 xviii Contents 17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364 17.3.1 Alizarin 364 17.3.2 Berberine 365 17.3.3 Bixin 366 17.3.4 Brazilein 368 17.3.5 Carotenoids 368 17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369 17.3.7 Carotene 370 17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371 17.3.9 Curcumin 371 17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372 17.3.11 Indigoids 373 17.3.12 Indigo 373 17.3.13 Juglone 374 17.3.14 Lawsone 374 17.3.15 Lycopene 375 17.3.16 Morin 375 17.3.17 Quercetin 376 17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376 17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377 17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377 17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377 17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377 17.6 Biomordanting 377 17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378 17.7.1 Conventional Method 378 17.7.2 Modern Methods 379 17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379 17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380 17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381 17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381 17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381 17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381 17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382 17.8.3 Neem 383 17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384 17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384 17.8.6 Process Optimization 385 17.9 Conclusion 385 References 385 Contents xix 18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation of Textile Effluents 391 Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf, Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz 18.1 Introduction 392 18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392 18.2.1 Physical Methods 393 18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393 18.2.3 Biological Methods 393 18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393 18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394 18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394 18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395 18.4.1 Straws 396 18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw in Wastewater Treatment 396 18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398 18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves in Treatment of Wastewater 398 18.4.3 Stems 401 18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water Remediation 401 18.4.4 Barks 403 18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment Methods of Textile Wastewater 404 18.4.5 Nut Shells 404 18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater Remediation 407 18.4.6 Peels 407 18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408 18.4.7 Bagasse 409 18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment Methods 410 18.4.8 Husks 411 18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater Treatment 411 18.5 Conclusion 412 References 412 xx Contents 19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation and Applications 423 Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor, Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin 19.1 Introduction 424 19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424 19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424 19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424 19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425 19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425 19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426 19.3.1 Conventional Method 426 19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426 19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426 19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426 19.3.2 Modern Method 427 19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427 19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427 19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427 19.4 Mordanting 427 19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428 19.4.2 Biomordanting 428 19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428 19.5.1 Marigold 429 19.5.2 Pomegranate 431 19.5.3 Safflower 432 19.5.4 Acacia 434 19.5.5 Neem 436 19.5.6 Arjun 438 19.5.7 Saffron 439 19.5.8 Hermal 441 19.5.9 Turmeric 442 19.5.10 Annatto 443 19.5.11 Madder 445 19.5.12 Ratanjot 446 19.6 Conclusion 448 References 448 Index 457vii Contents Preface xxi 1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1 Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava and Shakeel Ahmed 1.1 Introduction 2 1.2 Importance of Recycling 3 1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing and Benefits of Recycling 4 1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6 1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6 1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7 1.7 The Circular Economy 9 1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9 1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10 1.8.1.1 Cotton 10 1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10 1.8.1.3 Wool 11 1.8.1.4 Silk 11 1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12 1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion Industry 13 1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social Obligation 13 1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14 1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15 1.14 Conclusions 16 References 17 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL viii Contents 2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19 Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity and Amal Ray 2.1 Introduction 20 2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21 2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24 2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29 2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29 2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29 2.4.2 Process Related 30 2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30 2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30 2.5 Conclusions 31 References 31 3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33 Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra 3.1 Introduction 34 3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35 3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36 3.2.2 Reuse 36 3.2.3 Restyling 39 3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41 3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41 3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44 3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44 3.3.2 Household Rags 45 3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45 3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46 3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46 3.4.2 Government Regulations 47 3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47 3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production and Processing of Textile Fibers 48 3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability in Textile Industry 49 3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53 3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care, and Recycling 53 3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing Recycling Practices 56 Contents ix 3.7 Textile Waste 57 3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals, and Water 58 3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58 3.8.2 Geotextiles 58 3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse in a Textile Industry 58 3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60 3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62 3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62 3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62 3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62 3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62 3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63 3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63 3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63 3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards, Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64 3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64 3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64 3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64 3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65 3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66 3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66 3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66 3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66 3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69 3.12 Conclusion 69 References 70 4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73 Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit 4.1 Introduction 74 4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75 4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75 4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76 4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78 4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78 4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79 4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79 x Contents 4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80 4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81 4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles From Crop Waste 81 4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82 4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82 4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83 4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83 4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84 4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco- Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84 4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85 4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/ Biowastes 86 4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87 4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88 4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89 4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents: Few Case Studies 90 4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed Fashion Garments 93 4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural Dyed Apparels 94 4.5 Conclusion 94 References 95 5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile Waste for Better Fashion 101 Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas 5.1 Introduction 102 5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103 5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile and Apparel Industries 105 5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105 5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107 5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using Textile Waste 109 5.4.1 Anokhi 110 5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110 5.4.3 Everlane 112 Contents xi 5.4.4 Doodlage 112 5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113 5.4.6 Osklen 114 5.4.7 Raeburn 115 5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115 5.4.9 Bottletop 115 5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116 5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116 5.4.12 Raw Mango 116 5.4.13 Patagonia 116 5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117 5.5 Conclusion 117 References 118 6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123 Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik, Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar 6.1 Introduction 124 6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126 6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized Textile Sectors 127 6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127 6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129 6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129 6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131 6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131 6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132 6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133 6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133 6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136 6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138 6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using Natural Resources 139 6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139 6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric Using Natural Resources 144 6.10 Conclusions 147 Acknowledgments 147 References 147 xii Contents 7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151 Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar, Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj 7.1 Introduction 152 7.2 Importance of Recycling 152 7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153 7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154 7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154 7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable Materials 155 7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156 7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158 7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159 7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160 7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161 7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164 7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166 7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166 7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167 7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167 7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169 7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170 7.13 Conclusions 174 Acknowledgments 174 References 175 8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177 Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal, Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha 8.1 Introduction 177 8.2 Sustainability 178 8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion Industry 180 8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182 8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182 8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182 Contents xiii 8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182 8.5.2.1 Recycle 183 8.5.2.2 Reuse 184 8.5.2.3 Reduce 184 8.5.3 Upcycling 185 8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185 8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186 8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187 8.6 Advance Technologies 188 8.6.1 Foam Technology 188 8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188 8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189 8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189 8.7 Eco-Labeling 189 8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190 8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190 8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190 8.10.1 Cartina 191 8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191 8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191 8.10.4 Piñatex 192 8.10.5 Polylana 192 8.10.6 Seacell 193 8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193 8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under the Fashion Industry 193 8.12 Conclusions 194 References 195 9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199 Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity, Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar 9.1 Introduction 199 9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200 9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200 9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202 9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203 9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203 9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing Strategies 204 9.4 Conclusions 210 References 211 xiv Contents 10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration— Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215 Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit 10.1 Introduction 216 10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218 10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218 10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219 10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220 10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes and Natural Mordants 222 10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225 10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226 10.6 Conclusion 230 References 231 11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235 Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray 11.1 Introduction 236 11.2 Linear Economy 236 11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238 11.4 Circular Economy 238 11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241 11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile and Fashion Industry 242 11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244 11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245 11.5.4 Opportunities 247 11.6 Conclusion 248 References 249 12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile and Fashion 253 Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey 12.1 Introduction 253 12.2 Marketing Mix 255 12.2.1 Product 256 12.2.2 Price 257 12.2.3 Place 258 12.2.4 Promotion 258 12.3 Market Analysis 259 12.3.1 Industry Overview 260 Contents xv 12.3.2 Target Market 260 12.3.3 Competition 261 12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261 12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile and Fashion 263 12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266 12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266 12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266 12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267 12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268 12.6 Conclusions 273 References 274 13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion and Apparels Marketplace 277 M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha 13.1 Introduction 278 13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278 13.3 Materials and Methods 280 13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280 13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280 13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280 13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280 13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280 13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281 13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281 13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281 13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural Resources 289 13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290 13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel Consumable Products 291 13.7 Conclusions 295 References 296 14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299 Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity 14.1 Introduction 299 14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300 14.2.1 Cotton 303 xvi Contents 14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303 14.2.3 New Fibers 304 14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306 14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308 14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308 14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310 14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310 14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310 14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310 14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311 14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311 14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312 14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312 14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313 14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313 14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313 14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314 14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315 14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316 14.4.2 Space Suit 316 14.4.3 End of Life 316 14.5 Conclusions 317 References 318 15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards Best Solution 321 Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha 15.1 Introduction 322 15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323 15.2.1 Prevention 323 15.2.2 Minimization 324 15.2.3 Reuse 324 15.2.4 Recycling 324 15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324 15.2.6 Disposal 325 15.3 Textile Materials 325 15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326 15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326 15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327 15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328 Contents xvii 15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329 15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling Textile Waste 330 15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330 15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331 15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333 15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336 15.6 Challenges 337 15.7 Conclusions 337 References 338 16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341 Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey, Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath 16.1 Introduction 342 16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343 16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches and Compensations 345 16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346 16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347 16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348 16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349 16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350 16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350 16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351 16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352 16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353 16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353 16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355 16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355 16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356 16.15 Conclusion 356 Acknowledgement 357 References 357 17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes for Textiles 363 Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman, Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan 17.1 Introduction 364 17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364 xviii Contents 17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364 17.3.1 Alizarin 364 17.3.2 Berberine 365 17.3.3 Bixin 366 17.3.4 Brazilein 368 17.3.5 Carotenoids 368 17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369 17.3.7 Carotene 370 17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371 17.3.9 Curcumin 371 17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372 17.3.11 Indigoids 373 17.3.12 Indigo 373 17.3.13 Juglone 374 17.3.14 Lawsone 374 17.3.15 Lycopene 375 17.3.16 Morin 375 17.3.17 Quercetin 376 17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376 17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377 17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377 17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377 17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377 17.6 Biomordanting 377 17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378 17.7.1 Conventional Method 378 17.7.2 Modern Methods 379 17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379 17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380 17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381 17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381 17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381 17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381 17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382 17.8.3 Neem 383 17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384 17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384 17.8.6 Process Optimization 385 17.9 Conclusion 385 References 385 Contents xix 18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation of Textile Effluents 391 Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf, Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz 18.1 Introduction 392 18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392 18.2.1 Physical Methods 393 18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393 18.2.3 Biological Methods 393 18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393 18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394 18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394 18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395 18.4.1 Straws 396 18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw in Wastewater Treatment 396 18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398 18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves in Treatment of Wastewater 398 18.4.3 Stems 401 18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water Remediation 401 18.4.4 Barks 403 18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment Methods of Textile Wastewater 404 18.4.5 Nut Shells 404 18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater Remediation 407 18.4.6 Peels 407 18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408 18.4.7 Bagasse 409 18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment Methods 410 18.4.8 Husks 411 18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater Treatment 411 18.5 Conclusion 412 References 412 xx Contents 19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation and Applications 423 Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor, Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin 19.1 Introduction 424 19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424 19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424 19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424 19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425 19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425 19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426 19.3.1 Conventional Method 426 19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426 19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426 19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426 19.3.2 Modern Method 427 19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427 19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427 19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427 19.4 Mordanting 427 19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428 19.4.2 Biomordanting 428 19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428 19.5.1 Marigold 429 19.5.2 Pomegranate 431 19.5.3 Safflower 432 19.5.4 Acacia 434 19.5.5 Neem 436 19.5.6 Arjun 438 19.5.7 Saffron 439 19.5.8 Hermal 441 19.5.9 Turmeric 442 19.5.10 Annatto 443 19.5.11 Madder 445 19.5.12 Ratanjot 446 19.6 Conclusion 448 References 448 Index 457vii Contents Preface xxi 1 Overview on Recycling from Waste in Fashion and Textiles: A Sustainable and Circular Economic Approach 1 Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Sanjay Shrivastava and Shakeel Ahmed 1.1 Introduction 2 1.2 Importance of Recycling 3 1.3 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothing and Benefits of Recycling 4 1.4 The Market for Upcycled Fashion Garments 6 1.5 Recycling Fashion Manufacturers 6 1.6 Sustainable Fibers and Technologies in Textiles and Fashions 7 1.7 The Circular Economy 9 1.8 The Main Characteristic of the Economy 9 1.8.1 Natural Fibers 10 1.8.1.1 Cotton 10 1.8.1.2 Bast Fibers: Flax, Linen, Jute, and Hemp 10 1.8.1.3 Wool 11 1.8.1.4 Silk 11 1.9 Eco-Labels Concerning Bringing Sustainability 12 1.10 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under Fashion Industry 13 1.11 Consumer Consciousness Along With Corporate Social Obligation 13 1.12 Sharing Economy and Collaborative Consumption 14 1.13 Technological Amendments in Textiles Making It More User Friendly and Environment Friendly 15 1.14 Conclusions 16 References 17 COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL viii Contents 2 Challenges for Waste in Fashion and Textile Industry 19 Jayant Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity and Amal Ray 2.1 Introduction 20 2.1.1 Annual Global Fiber Consumption (2000–2012) 21 2.2 Major Challenges in Managing Textile and Fashion Wastages 24 2.3 Usage of Renewable Resources to the Maximum 29 2.4 Increase the Life of the Product 29 2.4.1 Machinery/Equipment Related 29 2.4.2 Process Related 30 2.4.3 Chemicals and Dyes 30 2.4.4 Wastewater Treatment 30 2.5 Conclusions 31 References 31 3 Solutions for Sustainable Fashion and Textile Industry 33 Ritu Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Suruchi Pandey and Sarika Mishra 3.1 Introduction 34 3.2 Sustainable Fashion Industry and Green Solutions 35 3.2.1 Sustainable Textile Fibers 36 3.2.2 Reuse 36 3.2.3 Restyling 39 3.2.4 Used and Upcycled Garment Circulation Businesses 41 3.2.5 Clothing Rental 41 3.3 Recyclable Used Clothing 44 3.3.1 Fabric Reconstruction 44 3.3.2 Household Rags 45 3.3.3 Fabric Reprocessing 45 3.4 Obstacles of Fashion Reuse Businesses 46 3.4.1 Quality Parameters 46 3.4.2 Government Regulations 47 3.5 Solutions for Sustainable Textile Industry 47 3.5.1 Environmental Problems Relating to Production and Processing of Textile Fibers 48 3.6 Key Points of Counter Measures for Sustainability in Textile Industry 49 3.6.1 Eco-Innovations in Textiles 53 3.6.2 Eco-Selection, Production, Logistics, Care, and Recycling 53 3.6.3 Textile Waste Utilization and Existing Recycling Practices 56 Contents ix 3.7 Textile Waste 57 3.8 Use of Textile Production House By-Products, Chemicals, and Water 58 3.8.1 Agrotextiles 58 3.8.2 Geotextiles 58 3.8.3 Water and Chemical Recovery and Reuse in a Textile Industry 58 3.9 Textile Industry Effluent and Sludge Treatment Processes 60 3.10 Recent Trends in Wastewater Treatment 62 3.10.1 Reverse Osmosis 62 3.10.2 Electrocoagulation 62 3.10.3 Activated Carbon 62 3.10.4 Chemical Precipitation 62 3.10.5 Nanofiltration 63 3.10.6 Bio-Filtration 63 3.10.7 Sludge Treatment Processing 63 3.11 International Framework of Environmental Standards, Regulations, and Labels for Sustainability 64 3.11.1 Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) 64 3.11.2 Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) 64 3.11.3 Toxic Substance Control Act (TSCA) 64 3.11.4 Publicly Available Specification (PAS) 2050 65 3.11.5 Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) 66 3.11.6 Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA) 66 3.11.7 Government Green Procurement (GGP) in Taiwan 66 3.11.8 Sustainable Resolution (Su.Re) in India 66 3.11.9 Eco-Labels for Sustainable Textiles 69 3.12 Conclusion 69 References 70 4 Opportunities of Agro and Biowaste in Fashion Industry 73 Seiko Jose, Lata Samant, Archana Bahuguna and Pintu Pandit 4.1 Introduction 74 4.2 Agro/Biowaste for Textiles 75 4.2.1 Classification of Agro Residue 75 4.2.2 Type of Value-Added Products Manufactured 76 4.2.3 Agricultural Waste Management Approaches 78 4.2.4 Challenges and Issues Associated With Agro-Waste 78 4.3 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Manufacturing 79 4.3.1 Agro-Waste for Textile Application 79 x Contents 4.3.2 Industrial Interventions 80 4.3.3 Few Case Studies 81 4.3.3.1 GCA 2018 Winner: Made Bio-Textiles From Crop Waste 81 4.3.4 Designers Initiatives 82 4.3.5 Circular System (Waste to Usable Material) 82 4.3.5.1 Closed-Loop Recycling 83 4.3.6 Sustainable Future 83 4.4 Agro/Biowastes for Textile Wet Processing 84 4.4.1 Importance of Agro/Biowaste to Generate Eco- Friendly Natural Dyes: Its Environmental Concerns 84 4.4.2 Role of the Fashion Industry in the Current Scenario and Its Relation to Natural Dyes 85 4.4.3 Sources of Natural Dyes From Various Agro/ Biowastes 86 4.4.4 Application of Natural Dyes in Fashion Industry 87 4.4.4.1 Few Case Studies 88 4.4.5 Agro-Wastes for Color Removal 89 4.4.5.1 Removal of Dyes by Low-Cost Sorbents: Few Case Studies 90 4.4.6 Consumer Approach Towards Naturally Dyed Fashion Garments 93 4.4.7 Fashion Brands Approach to Promote Natural Dyed Apparels 94 4.5 Conclusion 94 References 95 5 Innovating Opportunities for Fashion Brands by Using Textile Waste for Better Fashion 101 Vandana Gupta, Madhvi Arora and Jasmine Minhas 5.1 Introduction 102 5.2 Textile and Apparel Industry 103 5.3 Carbon Foot Prints and Waste Generation From Textile and Apparel Industries 105 5.3.1 Carbon Foot Prints 105 5.3.2 Fashion and Waste Facts 107 5.4 Fashion Brands Working Towards Sustainability Using Textile Waste 109 5.4.1 Anokhi 110 5.4.2 Wills Vegan 110 5.4.3 Everlane 112 Contents xi 5.4.4 Doodlage 112 5.4.5 Abraham and Thakore 113 5.4.6 Osklen 114 5.4.7 Raeburn 115 5.4.8 Stella McCartney 115 5.4.9 Bottletop 115 5.4.10 Rustic Hue 116 5.4.11 Zero Waste Daniel 116 5.4.12 Raw Mango 116 5.4.13 Patagonia 116 5.4.14 Ka-Sha 117 5.5 Conclusion 117 References 118 6 Challenges and Opportunities of Waste in Handloom Textiles 123 Pintu Pandit, Sanjay Shrivastava, Sankar Roy Maulik, Kunal Singha and Lokesh Kumar 6.1 Introduction 124 6.2 History of Handloom Textile Industry 126 6.2.1 Independent Power Loom or Decentralized Textile Sectors 127 6.3 Types of Weaving Traditions 127 6.4 Approaches to Rejuvenate the Handloom Weavers 129 6.5 The Performance-Based Factors for Handloom Sector 129 6.6 Challenges for Handloom Textile Waste 131 6.7 Opportunities Towards Handloom Textile Sector 131 6.8 Unraveling the Weaver’s Scenarios: A Case Study on Bhagaiya, Jharkhand 132 6.8.1 Preparation of Ghicha Silk Yarns 133 6.8.2 Bobbin, Pirn Winding, and Weaving 133 6.8.3 Design Innovations and Market Analysis 136 6.8.4 SWOT Analysis of Bhagaiya Weaver’s, Jharkhand in India 138 6.9 Opportunities for Handloom Weavers Using Natural Resources 139 6.9.1 Opportunities for Dyeing of Handloom Textile Using Natural Waste Plant Resources 139 6.9.2 Opportunities for Value Added Handloom Fabric Using Natural Resources 144 6.10 Conclusions 147 Acknowledgments 147 References 147 xii Contents 7 Business Paradigm Shifting: Opportunities in the 21st Century on Fashion From Recycling and Upcycling 151 Pintu Pandit, Kunal Singha, Lokesh Kumar, Sanjay Shrivastava and Vinayak Yashraj 7.1 Introduction 152 7.2 Importance of Recycling 152 7.2.1 Benefits of Recycling and Upcycling 153 7.2.2 The Creators of the Recycling and Upcycling World 154 7.3 Fast Fashion and Slow Fashion Consumers 154 7.4 Impact of Fast Fashion in the Development of Sustainable Materials 155 7.5 Sustainable Fabrics 156 7.6 Challenges in Designing With Post-Consumer Clothes 158 7.7 Market for Recycled Fashion Garments 159 7.8 Indian Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 160 7.9 International Upcycling/Recycling Brands: Case Study 161 7.10 Fashion Designers: Keeping Textiles and Fashion Alive 164 7.11 Future Prospective for the Fashion Illustration 166 7.11.1 Concept 1. Installation: Rekha (The Lines) 166 7.11.2 Concept 2. Installation: The Voice of First Rainfall 167 7.11.3 Concept 3. Installation: Terraforming 167 7.11.4 Concept 4. Installation: Psychedelic 169 7.12 Current and Future Scope of Industry 170 7.13 Conclusions 174 Acknowledgments 174 References 175 8 Sustainability in Fashion and Textile 177 Pintu Pandit, Bhagyashri N. Annaldewar, Akanksha Nautiyal, Saptarshi Maiti and Kunal Singha 8.1 Introduction 177 8.2 Sustainability 178 8.2.1 People: The Social Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.2.2 Planet: The Environmental Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.2.3 Profit: The Economic Pillar of Sustainability 179 8.3 Environmental and Social Impacts of Textile and Fashion Industry 180 8.4 Sustainability in Fashion and Textiles 182 8.5 Sustainable Solutions in Textile and Fashion 182 8.5.1 Going Organic Way 182 Contents xiii 8.5.2 Textile Waste: Recycle, Reduce, and Reuse 182 8.5.2.1 Recycle 183 8.5.2.2 Reuse 184 8.5.2.3 Reduce 184 8.5.3 Upcycling 185 8.5.4 Slow Fashion Versus Fast Fashion 185 8.5.5 Sustainable Wet Processing of Fabrics 186 8.5.6 Eco-Finishing and Bio-Processing of Textiles 187 8.6 Advance Technologies 188 8.6.1 Foam Technology 188 8.6.2 Supercritical Dyeing of Textiles 188 8.6.3 Plasma Technology 189 8.6.4 Microwave Energy in Textile Wet Processing 189 8.7 Eco-Labeling 189 8.8 Barriers in Sustainable Fashion and Textiles 190 8.9 Economic Issues and Product Design 190 8.10 Sustainable Fashion Fibers 190 8.10.1 Cartina 191 8.10.2 Coffee Ground Fibers 191 8.10.3 Orange Fiber 191 8.10.4 Piñatex 192 8.10.5 Polylana 192 8.10.6 Seacell 193 8.10.7 QMilk Fibers 193 8.11 Technological and Sustainable Measures Under the Fashion Industry 193 8.12 Conclusions 194 References 195 9 Sustainable Strategies From Waste for Fashion and Textile 199 Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Subhankar Maity, Rajni Srivasatava and Jayant Kumar 9.1 Introduction 199 9.1.1 The Problems With Unsustainable Fabrics 200 9.1.2 Factors Affecting Sustainable Fashion 200 9.1.3 Sustainable Development in Beauty Over the Years 202 9.2 Sustainable Fashion for Brands 203 9.2.1 Example of Sustainable Fashion Brands 203 9.3 Sustainability and Internal Organization-Marketing Strategies 204 9.4 Conclusions 210 References 211 xiv Contents 10 Utilization of Natural Waste for Textile Coloration— Innovative Approach for Sustainability 215 Pradnya Prashant Ambre and Pintu Pandit 10.1 Introduction 216 10.2 Natural Dyes for Their Soothing Shades 218 10.2.1 Natural Dyes for Sustainability 218 10.2.2 Utilization of Natural Waste for Coloration 219 10.3 Research Studies for Potential Use of Natural Colorants 220 10.4 Functional Health Care Properties of Natural Dyes and Natural Mordants 222 10.5 Innovative Approach Towards Utilization of Natural Waste 225 10.5.1 Indigo—Potential Natural Dye 226 10.6 Conclusion 230 References 231 11 Circular Economy in Fashion and Textile From Waste 235 Subhankar Maity, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit and Amal Ray 11.1 Introduction 236 11.2 Linear Economy 236 11.3 Shortcomings of Linear Economy 238 11.4 Circular Economy 238 11.5 Principles of Circular Economy 241 11.5.1 Need for Circular Economy in Textile and Fashion Industry 242 11.5.2 Benefits of Circular Economy 244 11.5.3 Current Challenges for Circular Economy 245 11.5.4 Opportunities 247 11.6 Conclusion 248 References 249 12 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling of Textile and Fashion 253 Suruchi Pandey, Pintu Pandit, Ritu Pandey and Sanjay Pandey 12.1 Introduction 253 12.2 Marketing Mix 255 12.2.1 Product 256 12.2.2 Price 257 12.2.3 Place 258 12.2.4 Promotion 258 12.3 Market Analysis 259 12.3.1 Industry Overview 260 Contents xv 12.3.2 Target Market 260 12.3.3 Competition 261 12.3.4 Pricing and Forecast 261 12.4 Marketing Strategies for Upcycling and Recycling Textile and Fashion 263 12.4.1 Position Defense Strategy 266 12.4.2 Flanker Strategy 266 12.4.3 Confrontation Strategy 266 12.4.4 Market Expansion Strategy 267 12.5 Innovative Ways to Market 268 12.6 Conclusions 273 References 274 13 Economical and Sustainable Price Sensitive Fashion and Apparels Marketplace 277 M. D. Teli, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha 13.1 Introduction 278 13.2 Sustainable Business Strategies for Fashion Industry 278 13.3 Materials and Methods 280 13.3.1 Steps Involved in Upcycling of Garments 280 13.3.1.1 Collection of the Old Garments 280 13.3.1.2 Segregation of the Old Garments 280 13.3.1.3 Cleaning of Old Garments 280 13.3.1.4 Refurbishing of Old Garments 280 13.3.1.5 Visual Testing and Analysis of Garments 281 13.3.1.6 Cost Analysis 281 13.3.2 Results and Discussions 281 13.4 Low-Cost Sustainable Upcycling Based on Waste Natural Resources 289 13.5 The Sustainable Fashion Communication Model 290 13.6 Marketing Landscape of Low Cost Fashion and Apparel Consumable Products 291 13.7 Conclusions 295 References 296 14 Sustainability Innovations Coupled in Textile and Fashion 299 Vikas Kumar, Kunal Singha, Pintu Pandit, Jayant Kumar and Subhankar Maity 14.1 Introduction 299 14.2 Life Cycle Perspective 300 14.2.1 Cotton 303 xvi Contents 14.2.2 Synthetics (Non-Cellulosic) 303 14.2.3 New Fibers 304 14.3 Sustainability in Textile Industry 306 14.3.1 Technological Developments in Tagging 308 14.3.2 Technological Power to the People 308 14.3.3 Application of Textile Finishes 310 14.3.4 Thermal Regulation Finishes 310 14.3.5 Easy Care Finishes 310 14.3.6 Self-Cleaning Finishes 310 14.3.7 Super Absorbent Finishes 311 14.3.8 Medical, Cosmetic, and Odor-Resistant Finishes 311 14.3.9 Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Finishes 312 14.3.10 Ultraviolet Protection Finishes 312 14.3.11 Radiation Protection Finishes 313 14.3.12 Biological and Chemical Protection Finishes 313 14.3.13 Ballistic and Stab Protection Finishes 313 14.3.14 High Performance Apparel 314 14.4 Future Textiles for Space Age Materials 315 14.4.1 New Fibers and New Look 316 14.4.2 Space Suit 316 14.4.3 End of Life 316 14.5 Conclusions 317 References 318 15 Future Mobilizations and Paths of Waste—Towards Best Solution 321 Subhankar Maity, Manoj Kumar Mondal, Pintu Pandit and Kunal Singha 15.1 Introduction 322 15.2 Waste Management Hierarchy 323 15.2.1 Prevention 323 15.2.2 Minimization 324 15.2.3 Reuse 324 15.2.4 Recycling 324 15.2.5 Energy Recovery 324 15.2.6 Disposal 325 15.3 Textile Materials 325 15.3.1 Textile Solid Waste 326 15.3.2 Strategies of Textile Waste Management 326 15.4 Circular Economy/Zero Waste 327 15.4.1 Resell and Reuse of Textiles 328 Contents xvii 15.4.2 Recycling of Textile Waste 329 15.4.2.1 Mechanical Process of Recycling Textile Waste 330 15.4.2.2 Chemical Processes of Textile Recycling 330 15.4.3 Innovation in Textile Waste Management 331 15.4.4 Sustainability in Textiles 333 15.5 Energy from Waste Strategies 336 15.6 Challenges 337 15.7 Conclusions 337 References 338 16 Golden Fiber Jute: A Treasurable Sustainable Material 341 Amarish Dubey, Vinay Kumar Chauhan, Ritu Pandey, Mayank Manjul Dubey and Sanjoy Debnath 16.1 Introduction 342 16.2 Jute Cultivation, Distribution, and Production 343 16.3 Indian Jute Industry: An Overview of Glitches and Compensations 345 16.4 Environmental Aspects of Jute 346 16.5 Traditional Applications of Jute 347 16.6 Scientific Mechanical Applications of Jute 348 16.7 Electrical and Electrochemical Applications of Jute 349 16.8 Geotextile Application of Jute 350 16.9 Agro Textile Application of Jute 350 16.10 Medical Textiles Applications of Jute 351 16.11 Jute as a Replacement of Wood 352 16.12 Jute Paper Pulp 353 16.13 Bioenergy Application of Jute 353 16.14 Value Addition of Jute Fibers 355 16.14.1 Blending Process in Jute 355 16.14.2 Chemical Treatment Process in Jute 356 16.15 Conclusion 356 Acknowledgement 357 References 357 17 Sustainable Isolation of Natural Dyes from Plant Wastes for Textiles 363 Shahid Adeel, Nimra Amin, Fazal-ur-Rehman, Tanvir Ahmad, Fatima Batool and Atya Hassan 17.1 Introduction 364 17.2 Classification of Natural Dyes 364 xviii Contents 17.3 Medicinal Uses of Natural Colorants 364 17.3.1 Alizarin 364 17.3.2 Berberine 365 17.3.3 Bixin 366 17.3.4 Brazilein 368 17.3.5 Carotenoids 368 17.3.6 Carminic Acid 369 17.3.7 Carotene 370 17.3.8 Crocetin and Crocin 371 17.3.9 Curcumin 371 17.3.10 Ellagic Acid 372 17.3.11 Indigoids 373 17.3.12 Indigo 373 17.3.13 Juglone 374 17.3.14 Lawsone 374 17.3.15 Lycopene 375 17.3.16 Morin 375 17.3.17 Quercetin 376 17.4 Mordanting of Natural Dye 376 17.4.1 Pre-Mordanting 377 17.4.2 Meta-Mordanting 377 17.4.3 Post-Mordanting 377 17.5 Chemical Mordanting 377 17.6 Biomordanting 377 17.7 Recent Advances Used in Natural Dyes 378 17.7.1 Conventional Method 378 17.7.2 Modern Methods 379 17.7.3 Ultrasonic Radiation 379 17.7.4 Microwave Radiations 380 17.7.5 Gamma Radiation 381 17.7.6 Ultraviolet Radiation 381 17.8 Different Plant Source of Natural Dyes 381 17.8.1 Harmal Plant (Peganum harmala) 381 17.8.2 Arjun (Terminalia arjuna) 382 17.8.3 Neem 383 17.8.4 Coconut Coir (Cocos Nucifera) 384 17.8.5 Logwood (Haemtoxylum campechianum) 384 17.8.6 Process Optimization 385 17.9 Conclusion 385 References 385 Contents xix 18 Agro-Waste Applications for Bioremediation of Textile Effluents 391 Shumaila Kiran, Tanvir Ahmad, Tahsin Gulzar, Asma Ashraf, Syed Ali Raza Naqvi and Saba Naz 18.1 Introduction 392 18.2 Wastewater Treatment 392 18.2.1 Physical Methods 393 18.2.2 Chemical Methods 393 18.2.3 Biological Methods 393 18.3 Agro-Waste Materials 393 18.3.1 Composition of Agro-Waste Material 394 18.3.2 Sources of Agro-Waste Materials 394 18.4 Kinds of Agro-Waste Materials 395 18.4.1 Straws 396 18.4.1.1 Role of Different Types of Straw in Wastewater Treatment 396 18.4.2 Leaves Powder 398 18.4.2.1 Role of Different Plant Leaves in Treatment of Wastewater 398 18.4.3 Stems 401 18.4.3.1 Role of Stems in Textile Water Remediation 401 18.4.4 Barks 403 18.4.4.1 Role of Different Barks in Treatment Methods of Textile Wastewater 404 18.4.5 Nut Shells 404 18.4.5.1 Role of Nutshells in Wastewater Remediation 407 18.4.6 Peels 407 18.4.6.1 Role of Peels in Textile Water Treatment 408 18.4.7 Bagasse 409 18.4.7.1 Role of Bagasse in Effluent Treatment Methods 410 18.4.8 Husks 411 18.4.8.1 Role of Different Husks in Wastewater Treatment 411 18.5 Conclusion 412 References 412 xx Contents 19 An Insight Into Herbal-Based Natural Dyes: Isolation and Applications 423 Shahid Adeel, Mahwish Salman, Ameer Fawad Zahoor, Muhammad Usama and Nimra Amin 19.1 Introduction 424 19.2 Classification of Natural Dye 424 19.2.1 Animal-Based Natural Dyes 424 19.2.2 Plant-Based Natural Dyes 424 19.2.3 Mineral-Based Natural Dyes 425 19.2.4 Microbial-Based and Fungal-Based Natural Dyes 425 19.3 Extraction of Natural Dye 426 19.3.1 Conventional Method 426 19.3.1.1 Aqueous Extraction 426 19.3.1.2 Acid and Alkaline Extraction 426 19.3.1.3 Solvent Extraction 426 19.3.2 Modern Method 427 19.3.2.1 Ultrasonic and Microwave Extraction 427 19.3.2.2 Enzymatic Extraction 427 19.3.2.3 Supercritical Fluid Extraction 427 19.4 Mordanting 427 19.4.1 Chemical Mordanting 428 19.4.2 Biomordanting 428 19.5 Herbal-Based Dye Yielding Plants 428 19.5.1 Marigold 429 19.5.2 Pomegranate 431 19.5.3 Safflower 432 19.5.4 Acacia 434 19.5.5 Neem 436 19.5.6 Arjun 438 19.5.7 Saffron 439 19.5.8 Hermal 441 19.5.9 Turmeric 442 19.5.10 Annatto 443 19.5.11 Madder 445 19.5.12 Ratanjot 446 19.6 Conclusion 448 References 448 Index 457
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