Rustic Italian Food [A Cookbook]

Slow-cooked meats, homemade breads, flavorful pastas...these are the comforting foods that people actually want to cook and eat. With 120 recipes, Rustic Italian Foodshows home cooks of every skill level how to create the hearty comfort food that Italians have been baking, roasting, and curing in their own kitchens for generations, such as Fig and Chestnut Bread, Spinach and Ricotta Gnocchi, Slow Roasted Lamb Shoulder, and Apple Fritters. Vetri also shares the personal stories and rich history behind these dishes, captivating readers with his culinary talent and his storytelling. In this follow-up to his acclaimed Il Viaggio di Vetri, renowned chef Marc Vetri celebrates the rustic, handcrafted cuisine of Italian home cooks while advocating a hands-on, back-to-the-basics approach to cooking. Trained in Bergamo, Italy, MARC VETRI is the chef/owner of Vetri Ristorante, Osteria, and the recently opened Amis, all located in Philadelphia. From the Hardcover edition.

Trained in Bergamo, Italy, by some of the region’s most noted chefs, Marc Vetri is the chef/owner of Vetri Ristorante, Osteria, Amis, and Alla Spina, all located in Philadelphia. Vetri was named one of Food & Wine’s Ten Best New Chefs and received the Philadelphia Inquirer’s highest restaurant rating; he also won the James Beard Award for Best Chef Mid-Atlantic. Vetri has been profiled in Gourmet, Bon Appétit, the Philadelphia Inquirer, and the New York Times. Visit his restaurants online at www.vetrifamily.com
 
David Joachim has authored, edited, or collaborated on more than thirty-five cookbooks, including the IACP award-winning The Food Substitutions Bible and the New York Times bestsellers A Man, a Can, a Grill and Mastering the Grill, co-authored with Andrew Schloss. He lives in Allentown, Pennsylvania. Visit David at www.davejoachim.com.

Foreword by Mario Batali, ix
Introduction: A Return to Real Cooking, 1
 
Bread and Pizza, 8
Flour, 11  
Measuring, 12  
Yeast, 12  
Water, 13  
Salt, 13  
Starter, 14  
Mixing and Kneading, 15  
Proofing and Shaping, 18  
Baking and Steaming, 19  
I Want It Burnt!, 26  
Think Outside the Wine Bottle, 41  
Part Skim Is Part Insane, 43
Biga Starter, 22
Rustic Loaf, 24
Ciabatta, 28
Parmesan Bread, 29
Durum Focaccia, 30
Rosemary Durum Bread, 31
Blueberry Schiacciata, 34
Chocolate Bread, 35 
Fig and Chestnut Bread, 36
Brioche, 37
Romana Pizza Dough, 39
Napoletana Pizza Dough, 40
Margherita Pizza, 42
Mortadella Pizza, 48
 
Pastas, 52
Flour, 54  
Extruded Pasta, 55 
Rolled Pasta, 57  
Hand-Rolled Pasta, 58  
Pasta Water, 59  
Which Oil?, 74  
Opposites Attract, 83  
Getting Floury with the Kids, 93  
Parmigiano, 107
Extruded Pasta 
Basic Extruded Pasta Dough, 62
Rigatoni with Swordfish, Tomato, and Eggplant Fries, 65
Rigatoni with Chicken Livers, Cipollini Onions, and Sage, 66
Candele with Duck Bolognes, 67
Fusilli with Fava Beans and Pecorino, 68
Macaroni with Bigeye Tuna Bolognese,  70
Bucatini alla Matriciana, 72
Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe, 75
Spaghetti in Parchment with Clams and Scallions, 76
Rolled Pasta
Basic Egg Pasta Dough, 80
Fettuccine with Pork Ragù and Stone Fruits, 82
Goat Cheese and Beet Plin with Tarragon, 84
Robiola Francobolli with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Thyme, 88
Mortadella Tortelli with Pistachio Pesto, 89
Caramelle di Zucca Ravioli with Amaretti, 90
Salt Cod Ravioli with Marjoram, 92 
Escarole Ravioli with Pine Nuts and Honey, 94
Baked Pasta
Veal Cannelloni with Porcini Béchamel, 98
Fazzoletti with Swiss Chard and Sheep’s Milk Ricotta, 100 
Semolina Gnocchi with Oxtail Ragù, 102
Lasagna with Zucchini and Stracciatella, 104
Eggplant Lasagnette alla Parmigiana, 106
Hand-Rolled Pasta
Orecchiette with Veal Ragù and Bitter Greens, 110
Spinach and Ricotta Gnudi, 113
Garganelli with Gorgonzola, Radicchio, and Walnuts, 114
 
Salumi, 116
Types of Salumi, 118
Sanitation, 119
Freezing, 120
Seasoning, 120
Salt and Sugar, 121
Grinding, 123 
Mixing, 124
Stuffing, 124
Cooking, 127
Fermentation, 128
Curing, 130
Equipment and Doneness, 132
So Young and So Good, 150
To Each His Own, 161
Terrines
Potted Trout Terrine, 135
Duck Terrine, 136
Pork Liver Terrine, 138
Cooked Sausage
Lamb Mortadella, 142
Rabbit Salami, 144
Swordfish Sausage, 146
Dry-Cured Salami 
Soppressata Calabrese, 149
Fennel Salami, 152
Chorizo, 154
Whole-Muscle Salumi
Beef Speck, 157
Coppa, 158
Pancetta, 159
Lardo, 160
Shortcut Guanciale, 162
Warm Pork Belly, 163
 
Pickles and Preserves, 164
Canning, 165
Homemade Spicy Pickles, 168
Pickled Eggs, 169
Pickled Mustard Seeds, 170
Preserved Cherry Tomatoes, 170
Shallot Marmalade, 171
Mostarda, 172
Quince Butter, 176
Hazelnut Honey, 177
Strawberry Pate di Frutta, 178
Honeycrisp Apple Jam, 181
Apricot Jam, 182
 
Meats and Fish, 184
Brining Meat, 186
Roasting and Grilling, 187
Fish Freshness, 189
Procuring a Spit and a Suckling Pig, 193
Trussing a Pig to a Spit, 193
Preparing a Chicken for Grilling, 199
Thanks for the Complement, 210
Slow-Roasted Lamb Shoulder, 190
Spit-Roasted Suckling Pig, 192
Shaved Pork with Summer Fruit, 195
Chicken Halves on the Grill, 198
Sal’s Old-School Meatballs, 200
Veal Breast “al Latte” with Fried Sage, 203
Grilled Beef Cheeks, 206
Turkey Cutlets Milanese Style, 208
Braised Monkfish, 209
Mixed Seafood Grill, 211
Halibut with Peas, 212
Fish Poached in Olive Oil, 213
Tuna Tagliata with Fennel and Orange, 214
 
Simple Vegetables and Sides, 216
Choosing Produce, 218
Preparing Fruits and Vegetables, 218
Seasoning, 219
Vegetarians Welcome, 225
Birds of a Feather, 234
Lima Bean Salad with Shaved Red Onion, 220
Apple and Endive Salad with Lemon and Thyme, 221
Celery Puntarelle Salad with Anchovy Dressing, 222
Cold Farro Salad with Crunchy Vegetables, 224
Corn Crema with Corn Sauté and Scallions, 226
Roasted Mushrooms in Foil, 227
Rosemary Roasted Potatoes, 228
Potato Torta, 229
Polenta Squares, 230
Tuna and White Bean Bruschetta, 231
Fennel Gratin, 232 
Escarole Gratin with Raisins and Parmesan, 234
Eggplant Fries and Zucchini Waffle Chips, 235
Snails alla Romana, 236
Eggplant Caponata, 237
Artichokes alla Guidia, 238
Tuna-Ricotta Fritters, 240
Montasio Cheese Frico, 241
 
Rustic Desserts, 242
Simplicity and Seasonality, 243
Chocolate, 244
Suit the Situation, 251
Traditional Tiramisù, 245
Baked Peaches with Almond Frangipane, 247
Olive Oil Cake, 248
Toasted Raisin Biscuit, 249
Apple Fritters Lombarda Style, 250
Buttermilk Panna Cotta, 252
Mom-Mom’s Rice Pudding, 253
Blueberry Custard Tarts, 254
Rhubarb Strudel, 256
Amaretti Semifreddo with Warm Chocolate Sauce, 258
Waffles with Nutella and Semifreddo, 259
Chocolate-Hazelnut Tartufo, 260
Chocolate Zabaione Tart, 262
 
Sauces and Other Basics, 264
Hand-Crushed Marinara Sauce, 266
Pizza Sauce, 267
Tomato Conserva, 268
Porcini Béchamel, 268
Pistachio Pesto, 269
Garlic Chive Oil, 269
Celery Root Puree, 270
Gremolata, 270
Saffron Puree, 271
Corn Crema, 272
Horseradish Crème Fraîche, 273
Lemon Vinaigrette, 273
Rosemary-Garlic Brine, 274
Candied Hazelnuts, 275
Chocolate Sauce, 276
Candied Citrus Peel, 278
 
Sources, 279
Acknowledgments, 282
Index, 284