Tailoring Basics

This COLOR edition is written for the purpose of self-teaching the basics of planning, designing, cutting, and sewing of cloth fabrics at home. The author presents her experience in mastering the art of tailoring for 45 years and hopes to transfer her skills to the new generation of students of professional tailoring,TABLE OF CONTENTSCHAPTER 1. INTRODUCTION TO TAILORINGTypes of TailoringPrerequisites of Learning TailoringSewing ToolsThe Basics of Stitching1. Normal Harness2. Alternate Stitch3. Overcast StitchCatch stitchCross-stitch tackWhipstitch (Overhand)Needle ThreadingCHAPTER 2. SEWING WARESTypes of Fabrics Used in GarmentsSewing Machineo Finishing or Over Machineo Description of the Sewing Machineo Making Stitches in Sewing Machineo The Two Sources of Yarn in Sewing Machineo Fitting the Sewing Machine to the Type of Stitchingo Filling and Changing Bobbino Changing Presser Foot and Needleo Changing Machine Needleo Use of Sewing Machineo Placing Fabric on the Sewing Machineo Sewing Fabric with Sewing Machineo Sewing straight lines and curved lineso The Preparation of Clotho How to Buy an Embroidery Machine That Will Fit Your Sewing NeedsDescription of Sewing Toolso Scissorso Machine Needleo Stitch Removero Pins and Pin Holderso ThimbleCHAPTER 3. CUSTOM-FITTING TAILORINGMethod of Taking MeasurementsStages of Making PatternsTransferring Patterns To FabricMarking ToolsTrimming the PatternTransferring Marking onto Satin FabricI. Marking by Chalk on FabricII. Marking by Pinning Fabric LayersIII. Marking by Temporary Stitching of FabricsIV. Transfer of Marks by Carbon Paper and RoulettePinning Dantelle fabric to Satin FabricCutting Two-Layered FabricsInitial Hand Stitching of Marked FabricCHAPTER 4. PATTERN TAILORINGKEY TO SYMBOLS USED ON PATTERNSSTEPS OF PATTERN TAILORING(1) Taking measurements for female garments(2) Choose your pattern(3) The sketch of the style(4) Fabric(5) Pattern pieces(6) Finding the right pieces on the pattern sheet(7) Preparing to trace the pattern pieces(8) Tracing(9) Pattern layout1. TAILORING OF WEDDING DRESS I2. TAILORING OF WEDDING DRESS II3. TAILORING OF WEDDING DRESS III4. TAILORING OF WEDDING DRESS IV5. TAILORING OF PARTY DRESS V6. TAILORING OF WEDDING DRESS VI7. TAILORING OF WEDDING DRESS VII8. TAILORING OF PARTY DRESS9. TAILORING OF WORK DRESS10. TAILORING OF PARTY DRESS IICost of Tailoring Single Dress and Ten Dresses. Cost of Tailoring Single Dress and Ten Dresses (A) The cost of a single dress for one person with an experienced tailor is calculated based on time taken to cut and mark as 90 minutes and the time to sew and finish as 2 to 2.5 hours. Fabric cost (width 140 cm x length 2 meter, $3 to $ 4 per meter length) = 4 x 2 = $8Zipper (50 cm) = $1Thread = $1Cost of electricity = $2Net cost = $8 + $1 + $1 + $2 = $12Sale Price = $100 (B) The cost of cutting 10 dresses is based on 4 to 5 hours using 17 meters of fabricFabric (17 meters x $2) = $34Zippers 10 x $2 = $20Thread = $5Electricity = $15Net cost = (34 + 20+ 5+ 15) /10 = $7.4Sale Price = $50 per dress.