A Taste of Thyme Culinary Cultures of the

This pioneering book considers the culinary cultures of the Middle East in a variety of contexts. The contributors discuss various aspects of historical and contemporary processes, including likely origins and diffusions on ingredients and dishes, changes in food production and eating habits, contemporary revivals of traditional cooking, literary representations of food and drink, and the class, gender, and communal dimensions to food. Written by scholars from different disciplines, it covers a wide geographical area, from Central Asia to Morocco.

Richard Tapper is Reader in Anthropology at the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London.

Sami Zubaida is a Reader in Sociology at Birkbeck College, University of London.

Foreword

vii

Claudia Roden

Preface

xi

Note on Transliteration

xii

Notes on Contributors

xiii

Introduction

1

(18)

Richard Tapper

Sami Zubaida

Food Production in the Middle East

19

(14)

Tony Allan

National, Communal and Global Dimensions in Middle Eastern Food Cultures

33

(16)

Sami Zubaida

Part I: Cuisines, Dishes, Ingredients

From the Caucasus to the Roof of the World: a culinary adventure

49

(14)

Bert Fragner

Social Reality and Culinary Fiction: the perspective of cookbooks from Iran and Central Asia

63

(10)

Bert Fragner

The Meyhane or McDonald's? Changes in eating habits and the evolution of fast food in Istanbul

73

(14)

Holly Chase

The Taste for Layered Bread among the Nomadic Turks and the Central Asian Origins of Baklava

87

(6)

Charles Perry

Rice in the Culinary Cultures of the Middle East

93

(12)

Sami Zubaida

Al-Kishk: the past and present of a complex culinary practice

105

(38)

Francoise Aubaile-Sallenave

Part II: Food and the Social Order

The Revival of Traditional Cooking in Modern Arabic Cookbooks

143

(10)

Peter Heine

Jewish Food in the Middle East

153

(6)

Clandia Roden

Food and Gender in a Yemeni Community

159

(14)

Ianthe Maclagan

You Are What You Cook: Cuisine and class in Mecca

173

(12)

Mat Yamani

Eating Habits and Cultural Boundaries in Northern Iran

185

(20)

Christian Bromberger

Part III: The Language of Food

Beyond Taste: the complements of colour and smell in the medieval Arab culinary tradition

205

(10)

Manuela Marin

Blood, Wine and Water: social and symbolic aspects of drinks and drinking in the Islamic Middle East

215

(18)

Richard Tapper

Of Leaven Foods: Ramadan in Morocco

233

(24)

Abdelhai Diouri

Food as a Semiotic Code in Arabic Literature

257

(24)

Sabry Hafez

Bibliography

281

(14)

Index

295

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A Taste of Thyme Culinary Cultures of the Middle East

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials