Textiles

, by Kadolph, Sara J.; Langford, Anna L.

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ISBN: 9780131187696 | 0131187694
Cover: Hardcover
Copyright: 7/14/2006

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This popular book, now in its 10th edition, considers textiles as the materials used to create apparel, furnishings, and industrial products. It approaches textiles from a product analysis approach, using professional terminology, and provides examples to illustrate key concepts.Flow charts on identifying fabric structure and naming fancy woven fabrics; other fabrication methods; and knits have been added. Also included are tables summarizing components such as fibers, yarns, fabric structure, and finishes. An expanded glossary makes it easier for readers to find pertinent information.For designers, technical designers, apparel engineers, and others in the fashion/apparel business.

Preface

xiii

SECTION ONE Introduction to Textiles

(16)

Introduction

(6)

Product Development from a Textile Perspective

(8)

Serviceability and the Consumer

(1)

Performance

(3)

Information Sources

(3)

SECTION TWO Fibers

(156)

Textile Fibers and Their Properties

(20)

Fiber Properties

(4)

Physical Structure

Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement

Serviceability

(10)

Aesthetic Properties

Durability Properties

Comfort Properties

Appearance-Retention Properties

Resistance to Chemicals

Resistance to Light

Environmental Impact

Care Properties

Cost

Fiber Property Charts

Fiber Identification

(5)

Visual Inspection

Burn Test

Microscopy

Solubility Tests

Natural Cellulosic Fibers

(22)

Seed Fibers

(9)

Cotton

Other Seed Fibers

(1)

Coir

Kapok

Milkweed

Bast Fibers

(3)

Flax

Other Bast Fibers

(3)

Ramie

Hemp

Jute

Kenaf

Hisbiscus

Leaf Fibers

(1)

Pina

Abaca

Sisal and Henequen

Other Cellulosic Materials

(3)

Natural Protein Fibers

(24)

Wool

(9)

Production of Wool

Types and Kinds of Wool

Physical Structure of Wool

Chemical Composition and Molecular Arrangement of Wool

Properties of Wool

Environmental Impact of Wool

Uses of Wool

Specialty Wools

(4)

Mohair

Qiviut

Angora

Camel's Hair

Cashmere

Llama and Alpaca

Vicuna and Guanaco

Yak

Silk

(5)

Production of Silk

Physical Structure of Silk

Chemical Composition and Molecular Structure of Silk

Properties of Silk

Environmental Impact of Silk

Uses of Silk

Spider Silk

(1)

Identification of Natural Protein Fibers

(4)

The Fiber-Manufacturing Process

(16)

Fiber Spinning

(2)

Spinning Methods

Fiber Modifications

(7)

Spinneret Modifications

Molecular Structure and Crystallinity Modifications

Additives to the Polymer or Spinning Solution

Modifications in Fiber Spinning

Complex Modifications

Environmental Impact of Manufactured Fibers

(1)

Manufactured-Fiber Consumption

(1)

Manufactured versus Natural Fibers

(4)

Manufactured Regenerated Fibers

101

(16)

Identification of Regenerated Fibers

102

(12)

Rayon

Lyocell

Acetate

Other Regenerated Fibers

114

(3)

Synthetic Fibers

117

(38)

Synthetic Fibers: An Overview

118

(5)

Common Properties of Synthetic Fibers

Common Manufacturing Processes

Identification of Synthetic Fibers

Common Fiber Modifications

Synthetic Fibers

123

(32)

Nylon

Polyester

Olefin

Acrylic

Modacrylic Fibers

Special-Use Fibers

155

(18)

Elastomeric Fibers

156

(5)

Rubber

Spandex

Elastoester

Elasterell-p

Lastol

Fibers with Chemical, Heat, or Fire Resistance

161

(9)

Aramid

Glass

Metal and Metallic Fibers

Novoloid

PBI

Sulfar

Saran

Vinyon

Vinal

Fluoropolymer

Carbon

Melamine

Other Special-Use Fibers

170

(3)

SECTION THREE Yarns

173

(38)

Yarn Processing

175

(20)

Filament Yarns

176

(12)

Smooth-Filament Yarn

Monofilament Yarns

Tape and Network Yarns

Bulk Yarns

Spun Yarns

Processing Staple Fibers

Inserting Yarn Twist

Alternate Spun-Yarn Processes

Spinning Filament Tow into Spun Yarns

High-Bulk Yarns

188

(1)

Fiber Blends

188

(3)

Blend Levels

Blending Methods

Blended-Filament Yarns

Environmental Impact of Yarn Processing

191

(4)

Yarn Classification

195

(16)

Fiber Length

197

(1)

Yarn Twist

197

(3)

Direction of Twist

Amount of Twist

Yarn Size

200

(1)

Yarn Number

Denier

Tex System

Yarn Regularity

201

(7)

Simple Yarns

Sewing Thread

Fancy Yarns

Composite Yarns

Yarn Performance and Yarn Quality

208

(3)

SECTION FOUR

211

(116)

Weaving, Basic Weaves, and Fabrics

213

(32)

Fabric Quality

215

(1)

Woven Fabrics

215

(1)

The Loom

216

(5)

Preparing for Weaving

Loom Advancements

Environmental Impact of Weaving

Characteristics of Woven Fabrics

221

(3)

Warp and Filling

Grain

Fabric Count

Balance

Selvages

Fabric Width

Fabric Weight

Properties of Woven Fabrics

224

(2)

Naming and Diagramming Woven Fabrics

226

(19)

Plain Weave

Twill Weave

Satin Weave

Fancy Weaves and Fabrics

245

(20)

Dobby Weaves

246

(1)

Extra-Yarn Weaves

246

(3)

Pique Weaves

249

(1)

Jacquard Weaves

250

(2)

Momie Weaves

252

(1)

Leno Weaves

253

(1)

Double Cloth

254

(2)

Double Weaves

Double-Faced Fabrics

Pile Weaves

256

(4)

Filling-Pile Fabrics

Warp-Pile Fabrics

Slack-Tension Weaves

260

(1)

Tapestry Weave

261

(1)

Narrow Fabrics

262

(3)

Knitting and Knit Fabrics

265

(28)

Knitting

266

(4)

Needles

Stitches

Fabric Characteristics

Environmental Impact of Knitting

Filling (or Weft) Knitting

270

(13)

Machines Used in Filling Knitting

Filling-Knit Structures---Stitches

Filling-Knit Fabrics

Warp Knitting

283

(10)

Machines Used in Warp Knitting

Warp Knits versus Filling Knits

Warp-Knit Fabrics

Minor Warp Knits

Narrow Knitted Fabrics

Other Fabrication Methods

293

(34)

Fabrics from Solutions

294

(2)

Films

Foams

Fabrics from Fibers

296

(7)

Nonwoven or Fiberweb Structures

Felt

Netlike Structures

Fabrics from Yarns

303

(3)

Braids

Lace

Composite Fabrics

306

(15)

Coated Fabrics

Poromeric Fabrics

Suedelike Fabrics

Flocked Fabrics

Tufted-Pile Fabrics

Laminates

Stitch-Bonded Fabrics

Quilted Fabrics

Supported-Scrim Structures

Fiber-Reinforced Materials

Animal Products

321

(6)

Leather

Furs

SECTION FIVE

327

(84)

Finishing: An Overview

329

(14)

Routine Steps in Producing a Fabric

332

(7)

Fiber Processing

Yarn Processing

Yarn Preparation

Fabrication

Fabric Preparation

Whitening

Further Preparation Steps

Coloration

Finishing

Drying

Reworking

Routine Finishing Steps for Wool Fabrics

339

(1)

Crabbing

Decating

Carbonizing

Pressing

Environmental Impact of Finishing

340

(3)

Aesthetic Finishes

343

(18)

Luster

345

(3)

Glazed

Cire

Plasticize

Moire

Schreiner

Embossed

Drape

348

(1)

Transparent and Crisp

Burned-Out

Sizing

Weighting

Texture and Hand

349

(12)

Embossed

Pleated

Puckered Surface

Plisse

Flocked

Embroidered

Expanded Foam

Sheared

Brushed

Napped

Crepeing

Fulled

Beetled

Coronized

Emerizing, Sueding, or Sanding

Abrasive, Chemical, or Enzyme Washes

Silk Boil-Off

Caustic Treatment

Hand Builders

Special-Purpose Finishes

361

(20)

Stabilization: Shrinkage Control

362

(3)

Relaxation Shrinkage and Finishes

Progressive Shrinkage and Finishes

Shape-Retention Finishes

365

(4)

Theory of Wrinkle Recovery

Durable Press

Quality Performance Standards and Care

Appearance-Retention Finishes

369

(2)

Soil- and Stain-Release Finishes

Abrasion-Resistant Finishes

Antislip Finishes

Fume-Fading-Resistant Finishes

Surface or Back Coatings

Light-Stabilizing Finishes

Pilling-Resistant Finishes

Comfort-Related Finishes

371

(2)

Water-Repellent Finishes

Porosity-Control Finishes

Water-Absorbent Finishes

Ultraviolet-Absorbent Finishes

Antistatic Finishes

Fabric Softeners

Phase-Change Finishes

Biological-Control Finishes

373

(2)

Insect- and Moth-Control Finishes

Mold- and Mildew-Control Finishes

Rot-Proof Finishes

Antimicrobial Finishes

Microencapsulated Finishes

Safety-Related Finishes

375

(6)

Flame-Retardant Finishes

Liquid-Barrier Finishes

Light-Reflecting Finishes

Dyeing and Printing

381

(30)

Color Theory

382

(1)

Colorants

383

(2)

Pigments

Dyes

Stages of Dyeing

385

(6)

Fiber Stage

Yarn Stage

Piece or Fabric Stage

Product Stage

Methods of Dyeing

391

(2)

Batch Dyeing

Package Dyeing

Combination Dyeing

Printing

393

(10)

Direct Printing

Discharge Printing

Resist Printing

Other Printing Methods

Recent Developments in Dyeing and Printing

403

(1)

Color Problems

404

(4)

Environmental Impact of Dyeing and Printing

408

(3)

SECTION SIX Other Issues Related to Textiles

411

(45)

Care of Textile Products

413

(18)

Factors Related to Cleaning

416

(3)

Soil and Soil Removal

Detergency

Solvents

Laundering

419

(3)

Synthetic Detergents and Soaps

Other Additives

Sorting

Washing

422

(1)

Horizontal- and Vertical-Axis Washing Machines

Drying

423

(1)

Dry Cleaning

423

(2)

Dry Cleaning of Leather and Fur

Home Solvent Cleaning

Professional Wet Cleaning

425

(1)

Storage

425

(1)

Other Cleaning Methods

426

(2)

Vacuuming

Wet Cleaning

Dry-Foam Cleaning

Hot-Water Extraction

Powder Cleaners

Ultrasonic Cleaning

Conservation Practices

428

(1)

Environmental Impact of Cleaning

428

(3)

Legal and Environmental Concerns

431

(18)

Laws and Regulations

432

(7)

Silk Regulation, 1932

Wool Products Labeling Act, 1939 (Amended 1986)

Fur Products Labeling Act, 1952 (Amended 1980)

Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, 1960 (Amended)

Permanent Care Labeling Regulation, 1972 (Amended 1984)

Laws and Regulations Related to Safety

Flammable Fabrics Act, 1953, and Its Amendment

Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA)

Other Label Information

439

(1)

Mandatory and Voluntary Labeling Programs

Codes

440

(1)

Tort

441

(1)

Consumer Recourse

441

(1)

Environmental Issues

441

(8)

Environmental Impact

Efforts within the Textile Industry

Environmental Health and Safety

Disposal and Recycling

Career Exploration

449

(7)

Sourcing

450

(1)

Product Development

451

(1)

Production

451

(1)

Design

451

(2)

Merchandising

453

(1)

Marketing

453

(1)

Government

453

(1)

Education

454

(1)

Entrepreneurship

454

(1)

Museum or Collection Work

454

(1)

Summary

455

(1)

Appendix A Fiber Names in Other Languages

456

(1)

Appendix B Fibers No Longer Produced in the United States

457

(1)

Appendix C Selected Trade Names

458

(2)

Glossary

460

(31)

Index

491

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Textiles

Summary

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials