Material Strategies Dress and Gender in

Material Strategies brings together scholars from different disciplines to explore what dress and textiles can tell us about gender history. Experts from the fields of dress, design and textile history, business history, cultural anthropology, social history, art history and cultural history consider particular periods, places, individual garments, and moments of transformation. The book is broad in scope, covering women, men, social groupings and nations from the sixteenth to the twentieth century. At the same time, it incorporates illustrations that provide detailed visual evidence for gendered strategies of dress. Material Strategies both demonstrates the potential of this field of enquiry and helps to define its parameters. A jargon-free style makes it accessible to readers from a wide range of backgrounds.

Barbara Burman teaches at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, where she is Director of the Centre for the History of Textiles and Dress. Her research interests and publications focus on the cultural and social history of dress and textiles in the modern period. She edited The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking (Berg. 1999).

Carole Turbin is Professor Emeritus of History and Sociology at SUNY/Empire State College. She is author of Working Women of Collar City: Gender, Class and Community in Troy, New York, 1864-86 (University of Illinois, 1992) and numerous articles, including 'Collars and Consumers: Changing Images of American Manliss and Business', in Beauty and Business, ed. Phillip Scranton (Routledge, 2001.) She is also an artist who has exhibited in the NY area.

Notes on Contributors

vii

Introduction

1 Material Strategies Engendered

BARBARA BURMAN and CAROLE TURBIN

1

(11)

Section 1. Dress, textiles and social transitions in pre-industrial Europe

2 Fashion, Time and the Consumption of a Renaissance Man in Germany: The Costume Book of Matthäus Schwarz of Augsburg, 1496-1564

GABRIELE MENTGES

12

(21)

3 Reflections on Gender and Status Distinctions: An Analysis of the Liturgical Textiles Recorded in Mid-Sixteenth-Century London

MARIA HAYWARD

33

(23)

Section 2. Identity and eroticism, consumption and production, from the early seventeenth to the mid-twentieth century

4 Following Suit: Men, Masculinity and Gendered Practices in the Clothing Trade in Leeds, England, 1890-1940

KATRINA HONEYMAN

56

(21)

5 Pocketing the Difference: Gender and Pockets in Nineteenth-Century Britain

BARBARA BURMAN

77

(23)

6 Fashioning the American Man: The Arrow Collar Man, 1907-1931

CAROLS TURBIN

100

(22)

7 Erotic Modesty: (Ad)dressing Female Sexuality and Propriety in Open and Closed Drawers, USA, 1800-1930

JILL FIELDS

122

(24)

Section 3. Fashion strategies for reconfiguring nations and social groups in the early twentieth century

8 'De-Humanised Females and Amazonians': British Wartime Fashion and its Representation in Home Chat, 1914-1918

CHERYL BUCKLEY

146

(21)

9 Fashion, the Politics of Style and National Identity in Pre-Fascist and Fascist Italy

EUGENIA PAULICELLI

167

(23)

10 Style and Subversion: Postwar Poses and the Neo-Edwardian Suit in Mid-Twentieth-Century Britain

CHRISTOPHER BREWARD

190

(24)

11 'Anti-Mini Militants Meet Modern Misses': Urban Style, Gender and the Politics of 'National Culture' in 1960's Dar es Salaam, Tanzania

ANDREW M. NASKA

214

(24)

12 Dressing for Leadership in China: Wives and Husbands in an Age of Revolutions (1911-1976)

VERITY WILSON

238

(21)

Index

259

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Material Strategies Dress and Gender in Historial Perspective

Summary

Author Biography

Table of Contents

Supplemental Materials